.:HSTuners::

07-30-2002, 11:10 PM

ok I have a serious problem. Everytime I slow down or stop the car, my engines turn off itselfs. Its like its stalling on me. I have to pull the ebrake and shift into park to take the key out and restart the engine. Took it to my dealer told them the problem. They said they checkd the engine and no codes came up. They drove it and tried to make it stall but it wont work. So I said ok and took the car home. As I was driving home, damn engine stalled on me again. I noticed the the key on the panel was flashing. I took it back and told them the key was flashing. They told me it might be a communication problem. But I thought i asked here also because u guys are very helpful. Anyone know what is happening? Im scared dealer will call back and tell me "cant find the problem". Thanks in advance.!

ebpda9 · 07-31-2002, 08:48 AM

the key light on the dash will blink every time the engine stops running, even if u turn it off with the key or it stops. is it an automatic ? it might be that the torque converter gets locked up and stalls the engine whhen the wheels stop turning. it's the same thing as you would attempt to stop a manual car in gear without using the clutch. and it beats me. aren't any other lights flashing ? like d4 in case the car is auto ?

07-31-2002, 10:06 AM

I'm not positive how the immobilizer works, but I believe it immobilizes the starter, which would only prevent you from starting the car. If it is connected to a fuel cutoff system then maybe it could be the problem.

I dunno much about torque converters, but that sounds like a good place to start. The fact that the problem only occurs when stopping or slowing and not during other driving rules out a lot of possible problems. How much must you slow down for the problem to occur? Is it only when you slow down enough that the car would want to downshift?

Does it only occur when slowing using the brakes, or does it also happen when you just ease off the gas and slow down that way?

b

07-31-2002, 01:44 PM

Yes its an automatic. No other lights flashes on the panel. And yes I noticed it only does that when im driving slow or slowing down. Its like its loosing power or something. It does it when im using the break AND easing off the gas pedal. You guys ever drive and stop at a red light and When theres a green light, you press on your gas pedal but it wont move? The engine shutsoff and I didnt even notice it. The Torque converter could be in a lockup but if thats the case, then why didnt my car dealer find that problem? Do they have to check that manually or they have to stick a computer in there to check for any error codes?

and yes the immobilizers immobiliez the starter and it IS connected to the fuel cut off system. But I dont think that is the problem. It will only immobolized the starter if the improperly coded key is being used. So if thats what my manuel says, how did the car start up in the first place?

I really appreciate everyone's help. Thank you very much.

07-31-2002, 03:42 PM

wasn't there a recall on some 98-02 accords involving the ignition switch?? It said that while driving, the car can just turn itself off but there haven't been any accidents involving this and that's why they haven't done anything about it. Maybe you should mention this to your dealer. Hope this helps

07-31-2002, 04:19 PM

Good call.

Quote:

TORRANCE, Calif., May 23, 2002 -- American Honda Motor Co., Inc. today announced a voluntary recall of certain Honda and Acura models to replace an ignition switch which may cause the engine to stall. The recall involves about 1.3 million of certain 1997 to 2000 models of the Honda Accord, Civic, Prelude, CR-V and Odyssey. Also included in the recall are some 1999 Acura TL sedans and certain 1997 to 1999 CL coupes.

The situation is created by electrical contacts within the ignition switch that wear prematurely causing the switch to malfunction. An affected vehicle will likely experience difficulty in starting for a period of time prior to experiencing any engine stall. Normally, the vehicle can be restarted immediately.

Most customers will not experience problems with their ignition switch prior to repair -- less than 3/10ths of one percent of affected vehicles have experienced switch problems.

Owners of affected vehicles will be contacted by American Honda and asked to take their vehicle to an authorized dealer to be repaired free of charge. The repair involves the replacement of the electrical contact portion of the ignition switch while retaining the original lock and key assemblies.

Owners will be notified by mail when parts are available for their model. Because of the large number of vehicles involved, it may take several months to make the replacement parts available for all vehicles. Mailings will begin in June and should be completed by September.

Details regarding mailing dates and affected vehicles will be available on the Honda and Acura Web sites today. Owners will be able to access this information by logging in to the Owner Link section of www.honda.com or www.acura.com and entering the 17-digit vehicle identification number found on their dash. Customers may also contact their Honda or Acura dealer with questions.

There have been no accidents or injuries reported to American Honda related to this issue.

b

07-31-2002, 08:22 PM

MAn I love you guys.!

. Told this to my dealer and they said they'll check the ignition switch. Thanks guys! Ill tell you the results ASAP!

07-31-2002, 11:06 PM

you're welcome!!

ebpda9 · 07-31-2002, 11:15 PM

yeah i think chief put the post up. we went for the hard part first

08-01-2002, 01:34 AM

OK I got badnews and good news. Bad news first.

My Dealer is a FORD dealer and that is where I bought my used honda. So I figure they didnt know about the problem. They said they drove it around and try to get it to stall but it didnt so they said to me to come pick it up. So my dealer didnt fix the problem.

Good News.

I registered with honda.com and punched in my VIN code. Voila.

"Concerned about safety? So is Honda. That's why Owner Link provides up-to-date recall information about your vehicle. Because Owner Link recall listings are based on your Honda's Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), they are specific to your vehicle.

Your 1998 Honda Accord is included in the Ignition Recall."

Im Pretty sure that means I get a ignition recall for free!

I called the nearest Honda Dealer and told them that my car was stalling and told them my VIN was included in the recall. He said Ok, Bring the car in on monday, that is the earliest.

Again, Thanks GUYS!

08-01-2002, 02:34 AM

OK guys While my car was at the dealer, I had my brake pads and rotors replaced on the front breaks.. Im noticing the front left tires smells like burning rubber and it has lotsa cracks and tears in the tire. I thought I accidently left my ebrake on but Im pretty damn sure it wasnt. Then I drove the car and made sure I left the ebrake off. I noticed a little rubber smell coming off the same tires. The tires in the rear looks normal and doesnt smell but the 2 in the front especially the one on the driver side doesnt looks so good.

Is it because Im driving the car too fast? (I only drove it to about 60 mph max today) or Is it a possibility that the dealer did something wrong with the breaks?

08-01-2002, 08:39 AM

The ebrake connects to the rear wheels.

If your tire is all torn up I wouldn't blame that on brakes in any way. You'd know if the brakes weren't disengaging.....having no acceleration would be your first indicator, and the brakes/rotors would develop problems, not the tire.

The brakes can smell a little like burning rubber. How many miles have you put on since having the new pads installed? My guess is that they take a little while to break in (no pun intended). My bro's IS300 had nasty burnt rubber smell from the brakes for a while when the car was new, every time I got out of the car I noticed it.

If you tire is torn up, though, then you might want to look into getting some new tires. Driving on damaged tires isn't the best idea in the world.

How hard do you drive your car though, or shall I say, stop your car? To need new rotors on a '98 sounds pretty extreme to me.....

b

ebpda9 · 08-01-2002, 10:36 AM

usually during the break in period brakes will get hot and smell a bit.

i'm not sure how the rotors and brake assembly are on the 6th generation, but if they are like on my car, then when you change the rotors it's time for an alignament. you gotta take half of the front suspension to get to the rotors.

08-01-2002, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hondaman-iac
usually during the break in period brakes will get hot and smell a bit.

i'm not sure how the rotors and brake assembly are on the 6th generation, but if they are like on my car, then when you change the rotors it's time for an alignament. you gotta take half of the front suspension to get to the rotors.

I sure hope it's not that way on the 6th gens.....guess I'll check the Helms manual when I get home.

That really sucks though. On my '88 Volvo it's real simple. I replaced the rotors one myself, took like 30 min to an hour to do all 4. Just a couple bolts here and there.

b

08-01-2002, 03:41 PM

I only drove like 5 miles or 10 max after I got the new pads. When I was driving home..I could tell I had new brakes..it didnt feel the same so i tried to test it out.I went 60 mph and pressed on the break but I noticed there wasnt much resistence on the brake like it used to so I had to pressed it ALL the way down for the car to slowdown. I started to getting worry but when I drove to the video store, I notice my brakes are going back to normal so I didnt care anymore. But when I got home, I smelled burning rubber and the tires looks pretty messed up.

I told my dad my tires was messed up so hes gonna buy me 2. I was gonna take the 2 rear tires and rotate it to the front and use the new tires and put it in the rear.

08-02-2002, 08:23 AM

I forget which is recommended, but I think that it is generally recommended to put the better traction tires on the front. Could somebody else back this up or contradict?

b

08-22-2002, 09:49 PM

yes, put the newer tires on the front. if you had a rear-wheel drive car they would be put on the back. the front tires need the most traction. The new front tires will most likely wear down about the same time the rear ones do now. might be a good idea to switch your two back tires though so that they wear evenly.

07-30-2002, 11:10 PM	#1
accord98lx Posts: n/a	Help mE PLZ! ok I have a serious problem. Everytime I slow down or stop the car, my engines turn off itselfs. Its like its stalling on me. I have to pull the ebrake and shift into park to take the key out and restart the engine. Took it to my dealer told them the problem. They said they checkd the engine and no codes came up. They drove it and tried to make it stall but it wont work. So I said ok and took the car home. As I was driving home, damn engine stalled on me again. I noticed the the key on the panel was flashing. I took it back and told them the key was flashing. They told me it might be a communication problem. But I thought i asked here also because u guys are very helpful. Anyone know what is happening? Im scared dealer will call back and tell me "cant find the problem". Thanks in advance.!

07-31-2002, 08:48 AM	#2
ebpda9 Repost Wagon Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: over here Age: 44 Posts: 17,266	the key light on the dash will blink every time the engine stops running, even if u turn it off with the key or it stops. is it an automatic ? it might be that the torque converter gets locked up and stalls the engine whhen the wheels stop turning. it's the same thing as you would attempt to stop a manual car in gear without using the clutch. and it beats me. aren't any other lights flashing ? like d4 in case the car is auto ? __________________

07-31-2002, 11:15 PM	#9
ebpda9 Repost Wagon Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: over here Age: 44 Posts: 17,266	yeah i think chief put the post up. we went for the hard part first __________________

08-01-2002, 10:36 AM	#13
ebpda9 Repost Wagon Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: over here Age: 44 Posts: 17,266	usually during the break in period brakes will get hot and smell a bit. i'm not sure how the rotors and brake assembly are on the 6th generation, but if they are like on my car, then when you change the rotors it's time for an alignament. you gotta take half of the front suspension to get to the rotors. __________________

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07-31-2002, 10:06 AM	#3
spoogenet Posts: n/a	I'm not positive how the immobilizer works, but I believe it immobilizes the starter, which would only prevent you from starting the car. If it is connected to a fuel cutoff system then maybe it could be the problem. I dunno much about torque converters, but that sounds like a good place to start. The fact that the problem only occurs when stopping or slowing and not during other driving rules out a lot of possible problems. How much must you slow down for the problem to occur? Is it only when you slow down enough that the car would want to downshift? Does it only occur when slowing using the brakes, or does it also happen when you just ease off the gas and slow down that way? b

07-31-2002, 01:44 PM	#4
accord98lx Posts: n/a	Yes its an automatic. No other lights flashes on the panel. And yes I noticed it only does that when im driving slow or slowing down. Its like its loosing power or something. It does it when im using the break AND easing off the gas pedal. You guys ever drive and stop at a red light and When theres a green light, you press on your gas pedal but it wont move? The engine shutsoff and I didnt even notice it. The Torque converter could be in a lockup but if thats the case, then why didnt my car dealer find that problem? Do they have to check that manually or they have to stick a computer in there to check for any error codes? and yes the immobilizers immobiliez the starter and it IS connected to the fuel cut off system. But I dont think that is the problem. It will only immobolized the starter if the improperly coded key is being used. So if thats what my manuel says, how did the car start up in the first place? I really appreciate everyone's help. Thank you very much.

07-31-2002, 03:42 PM	#5
Chi-town EX Posts: n/a	wasn't there a recall on some 98-02 accords involving the ignition switch?? It said that while driving, the car can just turn itself off but there haven't been any accidents involving this and that's why they haven't done anything about it. Maybe you should mention this to your dealer. Hope this helps

07-31-2002, 08:22 PM	#7
accord98lx Posts: n/a	MAn I love you guys.! . Told this to my dealer and they said they'll check the ignition switch. Thanks guys! Ill tell you the results ASAP!

07-31-2002, 11:06 PM	#8
Chi-town EX Posts: n/a	you're welcome!!

08-01-2002, 01:34 AM	#10
accord98lx Posts: n/a	OK I got badnews and good news. Bad news first. My Dealer is a FORD dealer and that is where I bought my used honda. So I figure they didnt know about the problem. They said they drove it around and try to get it to stall but it didnt so they said to me to come pick it up. So my dealer didnt fix the problem. Good News. I registered with honda.com and punched in my VIN code. Voila. "Concerned about safety? So is Honda. That's why Owner Link provides up-to-date recall information about your vehicle. Because Owner Link recall listings are based on your Honda's Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), they are specific to your vehicle. Your 1998 Honda Accord is included in the Ignition Recall." Im Pretty sure that means I get a ignition recall for free! I called the nearest Honda Dealer and told them that my car was stalling and told them my VIN was included in the recall. He said Ok, Bring the car in on monday, that is the earliest. Again, Thanks GUYS!

08-01-2002, 02:34 AM	#11
accord98lx Posts: n/a	OK guys While my car was at the dealer, I had my brake pads and rotors replaced on the front breaks.. Im noticing the front left tires smells like burning rubber and it has lotsa cracks and tears in the tire. I thought I accidently left my ebrake on but Im pretty damn sure it wasnt. Then I drove the car and made sure I left the ebrake off. I noticed a little rubber smell coming off the same tires. The tires in the rear looks normal and doesnt smell but the 2 in the front especially the one on the driver side doesnt looks so good. Is it because Im driving the car too fast? (I only drove it to about 60 mph max today) or Is it a possibility that the dealer did something wrong with the breaks?

08-01-2002, 08:39 AM	#12
spoogenet Posts: n/a	The ebrake connects to the rear wheels. If your tire is all torn up I wouldn't blame that on brakes in any way. You'd know if the brakes weren't disengaging.....having no acceleration would be your first indicator, and the brakes/rotors would develop problems, not the tire. The brakes can smell a little like burning rubber. How many miles have you put on since having the new pads installed? My guess is that they take a little while to break in (no pun intended). My bro's IS300 had nasty burnt rubber smell from the brakes for a while when the car was new, every time I got out of the car I noticed it. If you tire is torn up, though, then you might want to look into getting some new tires. Driving on damaged tires isn't the best idea in the world. How hard do you drive your car though, or shall I say, stop your car? To need new rotors on a '98 sounds pretty extreme to me..... b

08-01-2002, 03:41 PM	#15
accord98lx Posts: n/a	I only drove like 5 miles or 10 max after I got the new pads. When I was driving home..I could tell I had new brakes..it didnt feel the same so i tried to test it out.I went 60 mph and pressed on the break but I noticed there wasnt much resistence on the brake like it used to so I had to pressed it ALL the way down for the car to slowdown. I started to getting worry but when I drove to the video store, I notice my brakes are going back to normal so I didnt care anymore. But when I got home, I smelled burning rubber and the tires looks pretty messed up. I told my dad my tires was messed up so hes gonna buy me 2. I was gonna take the 2 rear tires and rotate it to the front and use the new tires and put it in the rear.

08-02-2002, 08:23 AM	#16
spoogenet Posts: n/a	I forget which is recommended, but I think that it is generally recommended to put the better traction tires on the front. Could somebody else back this up or contradict? b

08-22-2002, 09:49 PM	#17
ArixSin Posts: n/a	yes, put the newer tires on the front. if you had a rear-wheel drive car they would be put on the back. the front tires need the most traction. The new front tires will most likely wear down about the same time the rear ones do now. might be a good idea to switch your two back tires though so that they wear evenly.