.:HSTuners::::Hondas Wanted:: |
02-21-2002, 12:43 AM | #1 |
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adding torque.....
whats the best possible way to add torque to a car??
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02-21-2002, 07:20 AM | #2 |
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2 words.. Forced Induction...
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02-21-2002, 03:44 PM | #3 |
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Yeah but it's hella expensive. What else can be done? Using NA products?
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02-22-2002, 10:52 PM | #4 | ||
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NA is BIG dollars. More so than FI. But camshafts, timing adjustments, intakes, headers, exhaust, etc will help add to it. But for an NA application it requires some good tuning to turn the numbers. Then there's NITROUS ......
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02-22-2002, 11:08 PM | #5 |
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Well. To go turbo it costs ~3 to have a decent setup.
that's about 5g's canadian. I only work summers and that's the kind of money I make over the summer! I really can't dash it all to turbo's. |
02-22-2002, 11:13 PM | #6 | |
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If you are extremely strapped for cash, but still want something, pulleys will help a little bit... but not much.
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02-23-2002, 11:42 PM | #7 | ||
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*cough* NITROUS *cough* Seriously though. For $475 shipped you can get a ZEX nitrous kit. That's easy HP & Torque(up to 75 more HP/Torque) and its hella fun.
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02-24-2002, 02:39 PM | #8 |
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Don't you have to clean the engine regularly with Nitrous?
And isn't it bad for the engine? |
02-24-2002, 09:14 PM | #9 | ||
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See this is exactly why all the un-educated, ignorant people who have never touched or seen a nitrous setup should keep their mouths shut (not you). No you don't have to clean your engine. No its not bad for your engine. The only time its "bad' is when you go stupid and decide that 100 shot is fine on stock internals. Check out http://www.hondastyle.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=163 Nitrous gets a bad wrap from ignorant people. Plain & Simple.
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02-25-2002, 03:25 PM | #10 |
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How much nitrous can I run on my engine?
As much as you like. This, however, may not make your engine run for very long. Most stock Honda/Acura engines can safely handle 75 shot. "This, however, may not make your engine run for very long. " what does this mean? Also, I heard it's illegal to spray in the city. So basically Nitrous is only for the track? |
02-25-2002, 03:38 PM | #11 | |||
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Assuming you are talking about the Concorde? You'll have to excuse my ignorance on your engine. What size engine is it? How many miles? Quote:
This is referring to people who lack common sense. Meaning anyone who decides that running an insane amount of N2O (stock) their engine is a good idea. As far as the second part, it varies. Check with your local law office. I've heard varying reports. I used it quite a bit on the street, but that doesn't make it legal by any means. Unless you advertise your nitrous, you'll likely not have any issues.
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02-25-2002, 03:57 PM | #12 |
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No no I ain't planning on installing it on my Concorde lol
That's a good one. But to let you know I have ~140miles or 223k km on it! I'm just getting info right now. Reading up so I don't sound like those crazy people who don't know what they are talking about! Also is it always better to go with direct port, or is wet or dry kit good enough below 100 shot lets say? And in that thread they don't really explain what's lean/rich, care to explain? |
02-25-2002, 10:26 PM | #13 | ||
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Ok. First off keep in mind 100 shot is 100 HP & 100 ft/lb torque. That's a considerable amount of power. Here's the general rule of thumb. <75 shot - Dry Kit is fine 55-80 shot - Wet Kit Pretty much any size (usually > 50 shot) - Direct Port/Plate Kit Are you clear on how each kit works? The last question I don't think I quite understand. Lean is a state of not having enough fuel in the combustion chamber. Rich is the state of having too much fuel in the chamber. Neither are friendly to your engine, but a lean condition is the one to watch for since it can lead to detonation. I wrote that thread by the way. So any input on it is welcome. the idea is for a beginner to get a better understanding.
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02-26-2002, 06:36 AM | #14 |
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Yup. That's a good thread. I actually read it a month or so ago!
And yes I have the general idea of how each kit works. Ok one last question. You buy the Nitrous kit, everything is setup, how much does it cost to refill the tank, because I hear that's quite expensive. And isn't it dangerous that it can combust in flames and blow if you crash? |
02-26-2002, 07:22 AM | #15 | |||
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It usually ranges from about $3 - $4 a pound. So a 10lb bottle would cost $30-$40 to fill it. Quote:
Another "side effect" of The Fast & The Furious. Really theworst that could happen is the bottle valve would blow off. They have safety valves so that they expel the gas rather than blow up.
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02-26-2002, 01:09 PM | #16 |
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Oh, thank you! I am much better educated now!
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02-26-2002, 01:36 PM | #17 | |
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I saw this pic on the net about a year ago, supposedly from a Maxima with a faulty bottle heater that stayed on. Is this not possible then? Or could this really happen?
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02-26-2002, 07:10 PM | #18 |
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Holy Shit 94_AcCoRd_EX, damn!
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02-26-2002, 09:55 PM | #19 | ||
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That actually happened in Cleveland, Ohio I believe. Last I heard on it was they were still lookin into it. But, yeah it was supposedly the bottle heater. The thermostat should have kicked it off. The other thing is, why would you have it wired to a constant 12v power supply? WTF was he thinkin? .....on a side note, it didn't catch on fire. Just kinda exploded...
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02-26-2002, 10:45 PM | #20 |
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Well, fire/explosion, neither is good.
But this shows that things like this have to be set up by pros only! |
03-06-2002, 09:02 PM | #21 |
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If your looking for more torque while going the NA route, and you have some basic mods (I/H/E) get a fuel computer. I have an A'PEXi S-AFC and it added a lot of torque to my engine. I read in Import Tuner as well that they added much torque with that fuel computer to an eclipse. I have an LS, which is a bit torquey for a 1.8, but I still have more torque for what I have than any other dyno sheets with similar LS mods but without the S-AFC
Just make sure whoever is tuning the S-AFC knows what they are doing! |
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