Test Pipe?

Will my CEL come on when I put my test pipe on tomorrow? The o2 sensor will be in there and all but should the light come on?

If so how can I get it to go off?
Do I have to buy one of those simulators?

[pdiggitydogg]

well it shouldnt go off but if it does you gotta either buy a simulator or make one (jdmfan.com)

why are you running a "test pipe"

[Racing Rice]

Originally posted by oc civic
why are you running a "test pipe"

For testing purposes.. Duh..

[pdiggitydogg]

LOL riiiiiiiiiiight

Cause we don't have emissions here and I wanted to see if It makes a difference.

Originally posted by 1badcivic
Cause we don't have emissions here and I wanted to see if It makes a difference.

with your set up it SHOULD make a differance.. a NEGATIVE differance... i am one of those people that believe there can be a such thing as TOO free flowing of an exhaust... and i THINK for the power you are making that would be a perfect example of what NOT to do..its just NOT necisary.. in addition to that. it will through a cel.. because as far as teh computer knows something is WRONG.. so you would (if you want to do it correctly) get an O2 simulator (the electronic thing you described)... BUT to take it ONE step further i PERSONALY would not even do that as i really do NOT trust them...

in ur sig it says no cats.... what do u think a test pipe does??

replaces ur cat... so why are u wasting money???

nm i see there is only one cat off.... replacing the other i see now

no I went ahead and put it in my sig but it's on now.

And oc civic It DIDN'T throw a CEL !!!

Originally posted by 1badcivic
And oc civic It DIDN'T throw a CEL !!!

that would worry me...

I don't know why it didn't then today when I was giving it hell and shifting at around 6K it threw one. why would it do it then and not from the start?

Originally posted by 1badcivic
I don't know why it didn't then today when I was giving it hell and shifting at around 6K it threw one. why would it do it then and not from the start?

not too sure, BUT it SHOULD throw one.. but then again.. you SHOULDN'T use a test pipe.. but i already said that... a CEL is WAY more serious than people think.. you REALLY should put your cat back on till you figure out a way to PROPERLY simulate the 02 readings.. just to put it into perspective.. the ecu CONSTANTLY tunes the car by sensor readings... your sensor is NOW NOT reading correctly.. SO.. draw the conclusion.. test pipes are cool on HIGH HP cars that have some type of aftermarket fuel managment and tuning (EX: aem ECU) OR you could convert to OBD1 then a test pipe is an ok idea.. BUT

OBII + test pipe = STUPID

no offense just trying to help you out, and save you headaches down the road...

Will you check this out and tell me if it's any good?

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cg...roduct=IMPORTS

the top one

Originally posted by 1badcivic
Will you check this out and tell me if it's any good?

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cg...roduct=IMPORTS

the top one

i dont have enough info on how they work to give you an HONEST answer...

BUT the absolute BEST way to elminate the rear O2 sensor is to go obdI as that utilizes a HONDA ecu that is MADE to only have ONE sensor and a HONDA sensor, this inmho is the absolute BEST combo, i KNOW that works well, it also has tuning advantages over OBDII. i personaly DON'T trust the simulators, but i guess its better than nothing at all, i would just be curious as to how it "simulates it" like the oxygen reading that sensor would see at idle VS WOT is differant, so how does this device compensate for increased RPM and fuel demand? on a honda (as far as i know) the FIRST o2 sensor is the primary like more important... but im NOT %100 on that either... my suggestion is STILL OBDI or find someone with GOOD expieriance in the simulators..

Like Pdiggitydogg said on jdmfan they make a simulator, but I'm not that high up in electronics. I think I'll try OBD1

Originally posted by 1badcivic
Like Pdiggitydogg said on jdmfan they make a simulator, but I'm not that high up in electronics. I think I'll try OBD1

to go OBDI i think you would want to seek out the OLDER single cam vtec ecu (the 95 hatch style) adn a OBDII to OBD1 harness available from SKUNK2 adn there were some GOOD bootleg ones floatign around on honda-tech.com this will be MUCH better for your turbo also, if you get into heavy tuning...

hope this helps

How much can an ECU run? Also where can I find one? I thought about a junkyard but the ones around here don't have any hondas so..... Thanks

Also does it have to be a certain ECU? ex. ex lx hx or does it really matter? I don't have a clue...

Originally posted by 1badcivic
How much can an ECU run? Also where can I find one? I thought about a junkyard but the ones around here don't have any hondas so..... Thanks

Also does it have to be a certain ECU? ex. ex lx hx or does it really matter? I don't have a clue...

For eazyness of instalation YES it needs to be a certain kind.. it has to most closely match your stock specs, and understand things like vtec....

you are as far as i know limited to any obdI single cam vtec ecu & harness for "drop in" instalation, but if you wanted to get creative (and expensive AND difficult.. lol) you COULD in theory use ANY non vtec single cam OBDI ecu+ harness+ piggy back fuel management (vafc and GOOD tuning) + an MSD rpm activatated window switch , you CAN rig that up to run a GOOD vtec system, but you would ONLY do this if.. nah you WOULDN'T do this.. lol i had a friend who did it.. in his car it works well BUT he is the exception, and it is a HELL of a lot of work... so go with the FIRST example... i think a 95ish SI is closest to your motor, adn thats the ECU you want... as far as where to get it.. as around on boards.. SO many people do swaps now it should NOT be as hard to get as you think.... i have THREE ecus sitting right here.. (none are of any good to you.. lol)

hope that helps

[ChrisCantSkate]

looks like oc civic has this covered. i'd definitaly get the stock cat back on