.:HSTuners::::Hondas Wanted:: |
09-28-2002, 01:21 AM | #1 |
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whats the best motor for turbo?
I was gonna turbo a b18c5 but i heard they aren't good for it...then what is??this is also my daily driver....
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09-28-2002, 02:08 AM | #2 |
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b18c5 already has alot of compression... I think a integra LS motor is good for turbo... but i ain't the expert herrrrrrrrre
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09-28-2002, 02:14 AM | #3 |
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B18c1
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09-28-2002, 05:51 PM | #4 |
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B16
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09-28-2002, 05:57 PM | #5 |
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h22
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09-28-2002, 06:10 PM | #6 |
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looks like we're about list every popular honda engine..
ok, I'l be different C32A5!!
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09-28-2002, 06:25 PM | #7 |
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lol, i don't want a h22 because its a beast and ill have to nodify things to get it in there. I don't wanna do a b16 because there isn't much power there to begin with unless i find a type r somewhere... i want the car to be relizble and fast but so far you guys have metion 5 differnt engines...
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09-28-2002, 07:16 PM | #8 |
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ok... in all honesty, b18c1. its got the tq, and hp, the vtec engine is built stronger than the b18b, it does have higher compression, but if you run 6-8psi, you should be fine and have a very fast car.
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09-28-2002, 07:17 PM | #9 | |
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09-28-2002, 07:37 PM | #10 |
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sounds great! id like to run it at 10 psi... what do you think ill have to spend total? what mods have to be done to get the engine in there?
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09-29-2002, 04:27 AM | #11 | |
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For the H22. Its going to cost about 6k$ if you do it right and do the work yourself. Then you won't have AC if you want to turbo and either way you won't have power steering. |
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09-29-2002, 08:30 PM | #12 |
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My opinion, FWIW:
Balls out: H22A, no doubt. It's gonna be hard to run more than about 8 psi, though, because in a 94 Civic, traction is gonna be the biggest problem. Also, be ready to go without A/C and power steering. Streetable power: B18A/B. More displacement. 1854cc compared to 1797cc of the B18C. The B18C does have stronger internals, but it's to handle the high redline. VTEC is kinda (but not completely) ineffective under boost, and you'll benefit more, IMO, from the displacement of the B18A/B than you will from the redline and VTEC of the B18C. Besides, you'll save enough on the engine to go get some forged rods and pistons. |
09-29-2002, 08:49 PM | #13 | |
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09-30-2002, 04:38 AM | #14 | |
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To do it right, yes it will. If your gonna put a H22 in a civic and run a turbo your going to need good axles that'll be about $800 alone. Then you need a new radiator about $500, slim fan $140. Of course a new clutch $400, and replace all the other little things that need replacing $300. Mounts $400. Stock LSD $300. Wiring harness $300. New springs $160. All that plus the engine puts the total at just under $6k. Then if your going to do it yourself you'll need the right tools which might have to be rented. This is just for parts, shipping will be extra as well. You could just throw the engine in with all the original crap on it and just replace them piece by piece as things break and save some money at the beginning but that'll cost more time and money in the end. |
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09-30-2002, 03:06 PM | #15 |
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You can turbocharge any motor if done correctly. If the motor is running too high a compression ratio just install a thicker head gasket and some low compression pistons and it will be able to handle boost without a problem.
Just remember that turbocharging is going to cost money regardless of what motor you are working with. Unless your motor is new (under 50K miles) I would recommend upgrading the pistons, rings and head gasket before you go forcing more air into the cumbustion chambers. I learned from my mistake the first time I threw a turbo on a car.
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10-01-2002, 04:51 PM | #16 |
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i agree with delsolvtec. have you guys read the article on meguiares' (spell) typeR over 20 psi boost supercharged/turbocharged on stock compression? yes it sounds crazy but the bottom line really is tuning, meaning ample fuel and ignition. there are companies out there who makes anti-detonation devices. it will probable cost an arm and a leg.
do not get me wrong tho, my take on this, since i'm a poor cheap bastard...............b20z boosting at 12 psi. nice torque and hp will come along with the turbo. a b18b is not a bad choice neither for cheap poor people like me. |
10-01-2002, 07:56 PM | #17 |
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Hey Thermal... How about a Bored out 1.8 SOHC with 9:1 compression with eagle rods, blue printed, and balanced... Cuz thats what i Have... I just have got it running yet.. Darn.
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10-01-2002, 07:59 PM | #18 |
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stock compression maybe... but stock internals? thats the newest thing ive been seeing, people running 10.0:1 compression on beefed up internals then boosting and watching for detonation
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10-01-2002, 08:04 PM | #19 | |
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it can be done. i know a stock 5th gen lude running turbo on the stock h22. if i'm not mistaken the lude is a 10.6:1cr. that just scares me. :o
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10-01-2002, 09:28 PM | #20 |
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I dedided to lower the compression on my car. Running stock compression at 10psi on a SOHC 1.6 ended up cracking the pistons, frying the rings and blowing the head gasket. Defenately beef up your internals and lower compression if you plan on turbocharging a daily driver.
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10-01-2002, 10:41 PM | #21 | |
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what octane gas are they running? |
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10-02-2002, 12:00 AM | #22 |
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Good question, 20psi with stock compression would defenately require race gas to prevent detonation.
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10-02-2002, 01:54 AM | #23 | |
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Yeah, I mean if everyone had access to 100+ octane race gas all the time then no one would care about compression. But we don't and for alot of us 91 is the best we can get, so this "compression doesnt matter" talk is confusing me. They say just make sure its tuned real good. Well what is involved in this tuning? Retarding the timing a grip and run octane booster all the time? And if it didn't matter then why do all the cars that come with forced induction from the factory run somewhere in the 8.5:1 range if not less. |
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10-02-2002, 02:07 AM | #24 |
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im either getting a b18c with forced induction or just a h22 stock... still debating on which one
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10-02-2002, 10:20 AM | #25 | |
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10-02-2002, 07:51 PM | #26 | |
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Stock Compression of 8:5 is an ideal compression for turbo. Also there is more to tuning then just retarding your timing. By getting a standalone and tuning it on a dyno machine you can actually recreate your fuel curve that best matches your setup. Which is alot of difference from stock ECU................. Let me briefly explain to you what compression is and how a turboed car is effected by compression. Say you have 10:1 compression. In NAturally aspirated car you would run 10:1 compression. Simple right? However once you are turboed and forcing air in their. Say one bar or 14.7 then once your air gets compressed in there your compression works like its almost doubled. IM not sure exactly what the formula is but you are running like 15-18 compression. As you know NA cars have higher compression. MOre compression means more horsepower. Blah Blah Blah......... |
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10-03-2002, 01:50 AM | #27 | |
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I appreciate your input but I already know this, what i'm talking about is this somewhat new thinking on the internet about the stock compression on Honda's being OK for turbo as long as its "tuned real good". My question is what the hell are they doing in this "tuning" that the dealerships can't do, since the dealerships are running (approx)8.5:1 yet these people on the forums are touting it doesn't matter what the compression is(within reason). |
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10-03-2002, 02:10 AM | #28 |
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thread hyjackers
jk, im think im going h22 any input? |
10-03-2002, 03:59 AM | #29 | |
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Get good axles and don't lower the car too much. And to make things easier have your wiring harness modified by HASport. And if you want to keep your AC get the mount kit from HCP. |
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10-03-2002, 08:57 AM | #30 |
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oh, dont let the 8.5:1 compression fool you. that dosnt mean you can run high amount of boost safely, the stock rods will not support that kinda of pressure, expecialy on a enigne designed to make under 130hp. if i were to build a turbo motor out of my h22 i would probobly stick with 10:1 or MAYBE go to like 9.5 or 9.7:1 compression with the crower billet rods, and fordged turbo pistons. keep the high comporession to help with low end and spool the turbo fast, then not run as high of boost but still make the same power as if i went with 8.5:1 or 8.0:1 i know someone who had a 8.0:1 compression h22, he could run 22psi safly but he said street driving sucked horribly and that if his turbo ever failed or he had to uninstall it, he couldnt use the stock motor.
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10-17-2002, 02:10 AM | #31 | |
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hey biatch where ya been hidin? dude, u gotta tell me waz up you ride! i can not wait to see a 1.8 SOHC in this mug! |
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10-17-2002, 02:16 AM | #32 | |
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10-17-2002, 02:39 AM | #33 |
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i like discussions like this. a lot of us pointed out areas that needs elaboration before every gets "boost happy" on their cars.
first off, low compression is very ideal on turbo cars and it is also safer. theoretically, a low compression engine will handle more boost, meaning, more air volume can be forced in the combustion chamber. on any force induced car, a higher octane gas is always ideal to allow better combustion efficiency. what some researchers are developing is a way to combat low RPM band power lacking but maintaining an all out race car. in order to do this, they've compromised high compression+high boost. then tuned the shit out of it. do not get me wrong, i'll still do what i have to do. if it's my money getting spent, i would definitely stay on a lower or mid compression engine such as B18B and B20z for turbo purposes. a b18c5 is just a risky issue to turbo. IMO |
10-17-2002, 02:55 PM | #34 | |
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Sup Thermal... How is LIfe Dawg?..... Im still waiting for my block. JG IS HELLA LAGGING>>.. I think im getting it next week. So hopefully my powerful SOHC will be back on the road to terrorize them DOHC's... hehehe...... Other than that Life is good. I'm working now so that kinda sucks, but then o well. i guess its part of life.... |
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10-18-2002, 04:05 PM | #35 | |
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kool ........... cant be a street pharmacist forever..he he he j/k. |
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10-18-2002, 04:52 PM | #36 | |
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Whats invovled in this tuning? Dumping more fuel than needed into the cylinders? |
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10-18-2002, 05:03 PM | #37 | |
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i'm still trying to figure that out. lots of electronic mumbo-jumbo that i could not comprehend.....yet. they have also placed a some sort of anti-detonation sensor. i'll post once i figure it out. |
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10-18-2002, 09:36 PM | #38 | |
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Cool thanks. I'm getting sick and tired of people just saying "It'll be OK just make sure its tuned REALLY good". When I know damn well they have no clue whats involved in the tuning process. Oh, do you remember awhile back when I was having some weird noise coming from my tranny? Well its still doing it, I'm about to change the clutch and I'm hoping that its just the throwout bearing. Man if its not I'll have to get my stupid tranny taken apart, I'm thinking it might be the bearings in there, if its not the throwout bearing. |
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10-20-2002, 04:46 PM | #39 |
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speaking of B series engines. i came across 2 B18B's UNTOUCHED today at the junkyard. i wanted to pull it out so bad but did not have the tools. i also saw an old 200SX with the turbo still on. does anybody know the size of this turbo?
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10-23-2002, 05:26 PM | #40 |
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Tuning... here is a thread I wrote few months back about tuning. I've updated it a little, but need to do more.
http://www.hondastyle.com/forums/sho...&threadid=8552 |
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