.:HSTuners::

2ndGenTeg · 09-13-2001, 03:44 AM

For the money it would take to do even a moderate D16 build, you could get a B16 swapped in, and make more power.

If you still decide a D16 build is the way to go, it depends on which direction you want to go. The Gude/Bullfrog head packages are a good way to go for a "moderate" build. The D16 package includes a p/p, upgraded valvetrain, aggressive cam and more. Expect up to 50 hp with good tuning. For a serious all motor build on a D16, go with Jun, and accept no substitutes. Also expect to spend twice as much. With either of these options, I would seriously recommend also building your bottom end with new rods and high compression pistons (both from Endyn). For the Bullfrog/Gude, I would also recommend a blockguard. For the Jun, you should consider cylinder sleeving, a built crank, and upgrading your head studs.

As for the article from TOO: While it's very informative, I don't know of very many people adequately equipped (with the tools or the talent) to be doing that in their garage. It's a great article, but I feel it would be a little out of place in the how-to forum amongst header installs and removing your stock resonator.

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09-13-2001, 03:44 AM	#11
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 43 Posts: 830	For the money it would take to do even a moderate D16 build, you could get a B16 swapped in, and make more power. If you still decide a D16 build is the way to go, it depends on which direction you want to go. The Gude/Bullfrog head packages are a good way to go for a "moderate" build. The D16 package includes a p/p, upgraded valvetrain, aggressive cam and more. Expect up to 50 hp with good tuning. For a serious all motor build on a D16, go with Jun, and accept no substitutes. Also expect to spend twice as much. With either of these options, I would seriously recommend also building your bottom end with new rods and high compression pistons (both from Endyn). For the Bullfrog/Gude, I would also recommend a blockguard. For the Jun, you should consider cylinder sleeving, a built crank, and upgrading your head studs. As for the article from TOO: While it's very informative, I don't know of very many people adequately equipped (with the tools or the talent) to be doing that in their garage. It's a great article, but I feel it would be a little out of place in the how-to forum amongst header installs and removing your stock resonator.