need help with my turbo retrofit

alright, after thinking about it long enough, I have finally decided to start a turbo project. I am definitely not a turbo guru at this point, but bit by bit I am learning from these forums and other websites. I am very mechanically inclined, so I figure why not dive in head first.

Yesterday I went to the junkyard and pulled a Garrett *edit: its a Garrett t-3* turbo off of a 90 something Saab (it is in great shape). I also pulled a *edit: an IHI* turbo and intercooler off a mid 90's Ford Probe. The Probe turbo has a broken turbine shaft and some bent blades on the intake side. It is not in the best shape. I am guessing the car was junked because of the engine problems contributing/related to the broken turbo.

Both of my turbos have built in wastegates, which I believe are controlled by vacuum. Can I hook up my engine's vacuum lines directly to the wastegate and have it work properly? The manifold flanges have different sizing/bolt pattern.

The Saab turbo looks clean, the turbine spins smoothly, no play.

I need some advice on what to do next. Can I use the Saab turbo, and if not, should I get the Probe rebuilt?

Where do I go to find a manifold that will fit?

Also, I need some help understanding the whole computer side of turbo management. what do I need to find to control boost and A/F? Please explain how these components work.

*edit: I found homemadeturbo.com, what a great site! are there other sites like this online?*

I am also planning on getting a custom built exhaust system done at a local muffler shop. I am thinking about using 2.25" tubing, and a round turbo style muffler (not one with a huge tip hanging out the back) with a tip welded on.

Is 2.25" tubing going to be a good choice since I am planning on a turbo?

[Shaved &/or Laid]

2.5-2.75 dependsing on boost i guess

[thermal]

homemadeturbo.com is the shiznit! Anyway, if you go to my website, you'll learn a lot of basics about turbo. Since you are mechanically inclined, all these turbo jargon will come to you very easy. The fuel management side will take a little bit of research to understand. On the tuning aspect, it will require a lot of time on the web and trial/error type of stuff. That is not bad as long as you stay below 8 psi on your stock D16.

The IHI turbo IMO suks. That T3 turbo from a Saab is way better. I pulled off one before and sold it. The guy installed it on his CRX and loving it. T3 are quick spooling turbos. That will be great for a D16 set-up.

Can I hook up my engine's vacuum lines directly to the wastegate and have it work properly?

Yes. it will work. What you must consider is the set-point of that wastegate. European cars are not scared with high boost. I'm assuming that the wastegate on that T3 is at least 8 psi. You must tamper with that wastegate actuator/diaphragm to get it to set at your decided boost level. Stock D16 engine with stock fuel system components will be at risk at over 8 psi boost.

Go back to homemadeturbo.com and review their tech article on the HF manifold. The new issue of Honda Tuning has it featured as well. Use the HF manifold and make an adapter flange to fit your turbo of choice.

my suggestion on intercooler choice is the CustomCoach or Tyrus intercooler (from homemadeturbo). Very efficient yet fairly cheap. I have a customcoach FMIC. You can also get a starion/conquest FMIC.

Piping is not hard to put together. the cheapest one I found are the ones from JCwhitney. My turbo piping cost me about $60 shipped all together. I did some minor fabrication but an overall easy task.

Exhaust pipe size: anything from 2.25 inch will work. I recommend 2.5-3 inch tho.

Fuel management ranges from an simple boost dependent FMU (fuel management unit) to a stand alone system. It just depends on how much boost you want to push and how much money you are willing to invest. i'm using the AFC hack with 450cc DSM injectors at 10psi boost on a stock engine. no probelm whatsoever. Again, go to my website to understand how an FMU and AFC hack works. Just post if you have other questions/ Goodluck

Thank you so much for the replies. Thermal, where in VA are you from? I live in Richmond. Anyways, your site is incredible, I wish I had found it sooner.

I read through everything on the site and I had a few questions. I am still a little confused about VAFC. Does the "hack" refer to using a missing link, like the one made with check valves on your site, or rigging the system up so that you can use your stock MAF? Or does the "hack" refer to the way the VAFC manipulates the stock ECU?

After researching things last week, I think I have decided on an hf manifold, Apex-i VAFC, manual boost controller (is this a good idea, or do I need one at all?), and a greddy bov. I am pretty much ready to start buying, but I wanted to make sure this combo would be ideal. My goal is to keep the cost down, but not so much as to risk destroying my engine. What would you recommend for me to meet this goal?

A couple more questions for you, thermal, first, what is involved in "tampering" with my wastegate? Can I use my vacuum pump to check the boost pressure it will open at? If the boost pressure is too high, how could I modify it?

Also, are you suggesting that I try to make the hf/turbo adapter plate, or does someone sell this? If not, I would need to have this fabricated for me, since I just don't have the tools or the know-how to tackle such a job right now.

thanks a lot for the help, man, you have no idea how much I appreciate it.

[thermal]

I think i answered most of your Q's from AIM. I'm over here in Va Beach. Just a couple of hours from you. You should swing by sometimes and chat with me and my friends. Anyway, the AFC "hack" refers to hacking the ECU...... vice hacking the AFC. There is no need for a missing link or FMU. What it does is basically manipulate the sensors by setting the AFC "lean" to avoid MAP CEL/MIL. We obviously do not want a lean mixture while boosting. The combat this issue, you must have a bigger set of injectors. In my case, I use the DSM 450cc rigged with honda resistor box. On the AFC "hack", all the sensors are connected properly (including the MAP sensor). The AFC installation is as prescribed by the manufacturer. The "actual" air/fuel mixture is still done by the Honda ECU. It thinks that there is no boost since the MAP voltage input is modified through the AFC. The difference is amazing. Unlike the FMU/missing link set-up, you'll feel no boost transition with the "hack". It drives like a stock turboed car.

"tampering" with the wastegate is basically adjusting it to your desired boost level. Yes, you can use a vacuum of even a tire pump to see where the wastegate will fully open. You can do some modification to it by changing the diaphragm tension or shortening the rod (which to me would be a last resort). Anyway, hit me up for any other Q's man.... goodluck with your project