Boosted

[JDMFantasy2k]

Well i'm finally done. I had posted the other night but it obviously got lost. So saturday night me and my friend chris started the project and finished on sunday. It took us 3 wrenches to the face, 4 busted knuckles, 2 beers, and 14 hours, and the result is quite nice. We had a lot of bugs to work out (exhaust/DP leaks, not boosting 5.8psi, and some oil leaks), which we addressed most of tonight. I wasn't boosting a full 5.8 because the wastegate came loose and i had the line hooked up to the turbo compressor rather than the intake manifold. Then we wrapped the DP in heat warp so it wouldn't heat up the IC piping.

Once we did all that.... HOLY SHIT

So after i drove it a bit, i let chris drive it. We're crusing on the highway, and i'm like, i wonder how this would stand up against your old maxima. No like, 4 seconds later a modified maxima pulls up. I almost shit my pants. Mind you we had a half tank of gas, me, chris, and my cousin chad; Naturally we did a 3rd gear roll on.

He only had us by a half car length at like 105, i was extremely impressed.

Then i let chad drive. He's an okay driver but decided to miss 4th gear and powershift into 2nd, which, almost grenaded my engine. I almost died, but it wound up to 9K, and is fine. I'm still hyperventillating. But yes i let it cool down a lot and drove it for a while to make sure it's okay.

And here's some pics...

yes, no photoshop here. Thankfully honda makes one durable engine

Yeah, don't mind the windshield washer fluid container, that had to be moved so i could pipe the IC piping through the bumper, rather than under it. And my ghetto ass grounding system

The goods

[drdingo21]

Nice. Time for more boost.

And I wouldn't let that dick bag drive it anymore.


I over reved my accord....Took it too 10k. All I did was bent the exhast valves.

[JDMFantasy2k]

9160 without damage (far as i can tell anyway), i'm not complaining. ESPECIALLY seeing it's force-fed, and running on hopes and dreams

[ebpda9]

nice. i want a turbo too.

[thermal]

I'm proud of you man. Time to get that dyno tuned! :o

[thermal]

The onther thing is, I recommend that you plug those 2 holes on the charged pipe. Relocate the IAT and the PCV vacuum source to the intake piping section.

In regards to PCV:
Remember that you are boosted now. Your PCV system will be irrelevant while in that current configuration of yours. You must have vacuum at all times, if all possibility to prevent/minimize blow-by.

In regards to IAT:
IAT plays a role in your fuel map. In your current configuration, hotter temp is apparent due to "compression" from the turbo.

Just a few thoughts brotha'

[JDMFantasy2k]

yeah i've been thinking about all that. I need to make a simple catchcan for the PCV because all these home made, ho depot ones confuse the fuck outta me.

i may move the IAT sensor today, i figured it wouldnt' make a difference where it was, because i theory it really should be reading the actual temp, but hell this thing is running on hopes and dreams anyway. Think i still gotta tune my VAFC better or something because i threw a CEL, and it says it's my barometric pressure sensor. WTF is that? similar to a map sensor maybe?

thanks for the props arnel, hey when you boosted your Y8 did you dyno tune it? i'm going to but i think i'm going to wait till i get a boost controller

[thermal]

Code 13..... the notorious code 13 (barometric pressure). Sorry bro, you will always get that code because you are OBD2. I used to get that shit all the time. I switched to OBD1 and got rid of that code.

I didnt dyno tune my civic. I street tuned the crap out of it myself. It turned out okay but I think I was still running too rich tho

[sicones]

where is that barometric pressor sensor located, is there anyway of tricking the sensor to think its reading whats its suposted to???

[JDMFantasy2k]

Originally posted by sicones
where is that barometric pressor sensor located, is there anyway of tricking the sensor to think its reading whats its suposted to???

my thoughts exactly.

I was unaware of this code, hence i got a little nervous at first then i realized it's similar to a map sensor but just senses the atmospheric pressure (IE, less in colorado, more in death valley). Damn OBD2. I'll convert to OBD1 eventually, but when i do it'll be with uberdata

Umm i could use some pointers on street tuning. I mean i don't want to lean it out too much. I figure with my shit-ass narrowband AF gauge i got a good idea of what's going on on the high end (under full throttle anyway), but the idle is still the better part of shit, and smells rich as fuck when i start it, even though i leaned it out some. I have points 1000, and 1600, and like -41 or -42 and it still seems too rich.

Any possibility of fucking anything up by running a little lean on the idle/low end?

Also, i've been trying to figure out all this theory about the VAFC advancing timing and whatnot. How did you overcome this at 10 PSI arnel?

[thermal]

Barometric pressure is sensed from the MAP sensor but a different output. Instead of atmospheric calculation, it is converted to barometric.

The idle is the easiest shit to deal with. The only problem you have right now is the weather. The heat is making it hard to adjust your A/F ratio.

Instead of leaning it out, add more. When I was OBD2, I think I had my idle steady at -35% narrow (1000 RPM). Play with it until it gets steady. You wont blow up shit. The worst thing that could happen is your car will bog down. Try that......

You wont have problem with 10 psi. I hit 12 psi without a code plenty of times. The weird thing is, street tuning this kind of set-up gets really annoying, especially at this kind of weather. My friend set-up his -45% all the way across and dynoed 200.5 whp 165 tq on his 1.5L VTEC OBD1. I didnt even hit that high on mine. He is using my D16 turbo set-up.

Leaning it out some seems to make more power. But risky in many ways. Get a wideband bro.....

[sicones]

what about that "missing link" thing I see all over the place, I think its like a check valve that closes the map sensor when it goes into boost.

[JDMFantasy2k]

Originally posted by thermal


Get a wideband bro.....

yeah i'm planning on it once i scrounge up some bills, especially for when i start building my next setup. But still my big question. Timing. Wtf do you do about it? i was under the impression that the VAFC advances timing, which under a boosted condition is very bad. Hence i've seen many people run devices like an MSD BTM to retard timing per pound of boost, but what did you do about it, esp seeing you were running 10psi everyday.

also, what did you have for a pcv setup?

[thermal]

I didnt use any of that MSD BTM. Your timing is advance about 7 degrees at about 8-10 psi boost on the "hack". It's not really that bad. I kept my on stock timing. What others have done is retard the intitial timing to -3 to combat that problem. But dyno hp did not even make too much of a different and the A/F only made minor improvements.

For ease of mind, you can get a 6 BTM if you want. THis is my PVC set-up... basicaly like stock:

Intake section:

Filter-----Tap 1------ Tap 2------ compressor

Tap 1 is the tubing that leads to the PCV hose and valve cover breather.

Tap 2 is where I put the IAT sensor

Caution:
Do not use the MAP check valve or the Missing Link for the hack set-up. It will mess up your setting and timing even worst. Allowing the MAP to be bypassed will send a false output from the AFC to the ECU therefore fuel calculation will be terrible....

[JDMFantasy2k]

yeah i had heard of people keeping the timing stock and i wasn't aware that you did it too. But hell you got 3 years outta it right? But i'm religious about 93 octane and i'm running colder plugs. So i may retard the timing 2* to be on the safe side when i jack the boost.

So let me get this straight. The timing on our engines is about what, 16* BDTC? so if it advances the timing 7* what direction does it go? Does that mean that at 10Psi you timing is about 23* BTDC or 9* BTDC?

god timing confuses me, but i think i'm getting it

[thermal]

It should go up. Stock timing is around 16-17*. Advancing should be going up. So it'll be 17 + 6 =23* at 8-10 psi. The only problem people get with "initial" retarded timing is the low end power band (before boost) becomes laggy in power.

You'll be okay. Religiously change your oil. Use Mobil full-synthetic. The one with a blue cap.

Did you get your idle right yet?

[JDMFantasy2k]

yeah it idles pretty good. Sometimes if it's really hot it'll take a while of cranking to get it going, and sometimes it fires right up, but i figure that's probably all in the tuning.

[thermal]

That's normal. DSM injectors when dropped into a Honda motor and ECU are notorious for "hot start". You'll realize that it is easier to crank your car up early in the morning or late at night..

[JDMFantasy2k]

yup, and i know a kid who has a built Si who has the same problem and he runs hondata so i figured it was normal.

Last night i was really beating the shit out of it and i was just amazed at how well it ran. It was starting nicely, and idleing good. So i think the tuning is sufficient (for now), till i can pick up a wideband and really dial it in.

[thermal]

good job.... wait until it get colder outside. That civic will rock!!!!