.:HSTuners::::Hondas Wanted:: |
01-09-2006, 08:19 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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1st Gen B16A Skunk2 Intake Manifold Install
First thing---- A Skunk2 Pro Series intake manifold IS NOT a direct bolt on for a B16A 1. The manual says it is but its not. If you have a first gen B16A1 Si-R be ready to to spend a little bit more money on hoses and such. Here are some of the things you will need. Any direction as far as left or right will always be if you are looking at the engine from the front of the car.
1. You will need to either rig the pcv valve and the tube or buy a new one. When you try to remove it from the intake more than likely it is going to be hard and not pliable and break when you try to remove it. 2. Quite a few hoses are going to tear or break as it is a 1st gen so it is getting a little bit old so be prepared to buy or make some new ones. You will need some small vacuum line because now the fuel pressure regulator will hook directly to the intake rather than being y'd in with the other lines on the firewall. You will take the the y out of the mentioned hose and hook it directly to the right rear underside of the intake by its self now. You also need to get a hose that you can use to connect from where the fast idle valve used to hook to the block and the intake. This will be located on the bottom left of the intake. The reason for this is because this intake removes the fast idle valve all together so you have to loop the cooling system nipples. 3. You will need a different fuel rail. the stock fuel rail has the fuel pressure regulator a little over mid way down the rail. This intake moves the IAT intake air temp sensor (the 2 plug white one) 1 runner to the left.....right in the way of the fuel pressure regulator. So I had to use a rail off of a LS Integra because it has the regulator closer to the end. I guess you don't have to use a LS rail but that is what I had and it works. The only thing with using a LS fuel rail is it is a stretch to get the fuel line reconnected to it. I guess you could use any B16 fuel rail as long as the FPR is located to the right. 4. You will need to get another set of seal's for the injectors. (The black round seals that the injectors sit in) I'm not sure if there is a different way of doing this but I couldn't get the fuel rail to sit down far enough so that when you tighten it down it will seal the injectors. So I used a set of seal off the LS once again because this is the way the LS is set up anyway. You also have to space the rail studs (as I just said) because they will not let you tighten them all the way down so that the injectors will be sealed.( I used 2 washers on each stud) 5. As I'm sure you know you will need a new manifold gasket as the one on the motor will probably break when removed. You should get a throttle body gasket also and replace it while you have it apart but it is not necessary if it is in good shape. Auto Zone has both for about $15 all together. I guess you could use RTV silicone but why do that its not like the gaskets are expensive. After all is said and done it is work it. You will notice mid and upper HP gains and it is a lot smoother through the power band. Plus I love the way it sounds with all the air being pulled in. Now this is for the Pro series Skunk2 manifold. It says it is for a 88-01 B16A-B B17A-B and B18C5(R SPEC). I didn't know if it is any easier on different cars or if the original Skunk2 intake is any diffrent. but if you are going to do this it will take a couple hours. Last edited by Si-R CRX : 01-09-2006 at 11:04 PM. |
02-19-2006, 12:00 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: My Garage, Va.
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thanks... cant sticky it until I get my access redone with this new VB
Last edited by thermal : 02-19-2006 at 12:04 AM. |
02-20-2006, 09:20 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NC
Age: 42
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OK Cool
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