.:HSTuners::

ShagginJet · 11-01-2002, 01:48 PM

I was selling a turbo, and someone asked me about it...

This is the Turbo unit itself. You're going to need quite a bit of other stuff if you're looking to run a turbo on your civic. It's almost impossible for me to explain everything but hopefully I can share some of the info I know and it'll give you an idea of what's going on. You're going to need to do some reading.

www.homemadeturbo.com
http://honda.hybrids.jp/ap02/index.shtml
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/index.html

Let me explain what you're need, for the basics. You need the exhaust manifold, this will allow you to mount the turbo in the engine bay. Then you need the turbo, almost any turbo will do in a home made turbo project. Then you need a "down pipe", this is the piece that takes the exhaust from the turbo and put's it into your exhaust system. Usually it is custom made, it connects the exhaust out of turbo to your catalytic converter. You'll need an intake pipe for the turbo, and a air filter. You'll need custom piping made to get from the turbo intake out to the throttle body of the intake.

That is basically what you need. to be safe, you should as a BOV (blow off valve), PSI regulator (boost controller), Intercooler, maybe a FMU (Fuel Management unit). The BOV is a device that you mount on the intake piping, when your car is idle, if the pressure get's to high, then the BOV blows and releases the pressure. It is something that every turbo car should have but isn't needed, it's a fail safe device that'll prolong the life of the car and turbo unit. The PSI regulator or Boost controller allows you to set the level of boost different then what is set by the waste gate in the turbo. most turbo's are made for specific psi (pounds per square inch) settings, these settings are determined by the car and the turbo. So lets say you buy a turbo that has a psi rating of about 9 psi, well if you're wanting to only run 6psi in your car, then you need the boost controller to set the psi to 6 instead of the factory 9. In most cases, if you're only wanting some extra HP and not to spend $5,000 on a turbo project, then you're going to want only 4-6psi boost. Lowering the boost on a stock engine will make sure that you don't blow or over work the engine. if you've spent $5k upgrading your engine then you could handle the 9-15psi boost, but stock isn't safe above about 7psi, from what i've read. Because the turbo has the exhaust and intake so close to each other, the air that comes out of the turbo is hotter then normal. By running the air through an intercooler (IC), it cools the air down and allows the fuel to atomize better which calculates to better boost. On minimal boost(4-6psi) an intercooler isn't needed but it will help. The FMU or FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is basically a higher quality piece then what's in your car. It'll allow you to get better performance out of the turbo setup, and it'll help with keeping your car running longer. Then best type of FMU is a rising rate FMU, it adjust automatically through out your acceleration depending on the RPMS. This allows you to have the correct amount of fuel when needed, doesn't waste any and they don't cost much. This is an example of one: http://www.tognottisautoworld.com/se...CT_ID=MSD2222.

Hope this answers your question. It'll work on any car, but it's going to be a custom job.

2ndGenTeg · 11-02-2002, 03:08 AM

It's an interesting mix of oversimplification, technical sounding jargon, and a beginner's guide to turboing. What are you really asking us? It would make a lot more sense if we knew what the question was.

To answer your question, it makes sense, but your explanations are vague and oversimplified. You do have a few technical inaccuracies (Functions of the BOV, intercooler, and FPR) as well as some ambiguous statements which make it difficult to follow. While the rest of it is more or less accurate, the audience who is technically sound enough to follow would not gain anything out of reading that they were unaware of before reading it.

It's a good start. If you're looking on improving it, look up the stickies in the turbo forum that do a little more complete and concise job of explaining the components of a turbo setup.

11-01-2002, 01:48 PM	#1
ShagginJet Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,584	This all make sence? I was selling a turbo, and someone asked me about it... This is the Turbo unit itself. You're going to need quite a bit of other stuff if you're looking to run a turbo on your civic. It's almost impossible for me to explain everything but hopefully I can share some of the info I know and it'll give you an idea of what's going on. You're going to need to do some reading. www.homemadeturbo.com http://honda.hybrids.jp/ap02/index.shtml http://tech.hybridgarage.com/index.html Let me explain what you're need, for the basics. You need the exhaust manifold, this will allow you to mount the turbo in the engine bay. Then you need the turbo, almost any turbo will do in a home made turbo project. Then you need a "down pipe", this is the piece that takes the exhaust from the turbo and put's it into your exhaust system. Usually it is custom made, it connects the exhaust out of turbo to your catalytic converter. You'll need an intake pipe for the turbo, and a air filter. You'll need custom piping made to get from the turbo intake out to the throttle body of the intake. That is basically what you need. to be safe, you should as a BOV (blow off valve), PSI regulator (boost controller), Intercooler, maybe a FMU (Fuel Management unit). The BOV is a device that you mount on the intake piping, when your car is idle, if the pressure get's to high, then the BOV blows and releases the pressure. It is something that every turbo car should have but isn't needed, it's a fail safe device that'll prolong the life of the car and turbo unit. The PSI regulator or Boost controller allows you to set the level of boost different then what is set by the waste gate in the turbo. most turbo's are made for specific psi (pounds per square inch) settings, these settings are determined by the car and the turbo. So lets say you buy a turbo that has a psi rating of about 9 psi, well if you're wanting to only run 6psi in your car, then you need the boost controller to set the psi to 6 instead of the factory 9. In most cases, if you're only wanting some extra HP and not to spend $5,000 on a turbo project, then you're going to want only 4-6psi boost. Lowering the boost on a stock engine will make sure that you don't blow or over work the engine. if you've spent $5k upgrading your engine then you could handle the 9-15psi boost, but stock isn't safe above about 7psi, from what i've read. Because the turbo has the exhaust and intake so close to each other, the air that comes out of the turbo is hotter then normal. By running the air through an intercooler (IC), it cools the air down and allows the fuel to atomize better which calculates to better boost. On minimal boost(4-6psi) an intercooler isn't needed but it will help. The FMU or FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is basically a higher quality piece then what's in your car. It'll allow you to get better performance out of the turbo setup, and it'll help with keeping your car running longer. Then best type of FMU is a rising rate FMU, it adjust automatically through out your acceleration depending on the RPMS. This allows you to have the correct amount of fuel when needed, doesn't waste any and they don't cost much. This is an example of one: http://www.tognottisautoworld.com/se...CT_ID=MSD2222. Hope this answers your question. It'll work on any car, but it's going to be a custom job. __________________ RECENTLY UPDATED!!! 5-20-04 http://63.249.135.19/hdrive/car/index.htm

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11-02-2002, 03:08 AM	#2
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 44 Posts: 830	It's an interesting mix of oversimplification, technical sounding jargon, and a beginner's guide to turboing. What are you really asking us? It would make a lot more sense if we knew what the question was. To answer your question, it makes sense, but your explanations are vague and oversimplified. You do have a few technical inaccuracies (Functions of the BOV, intercooler, and FPR) as well as some ambiguous statements which make it difficult to follow. While the rest of it is more or less accurate, the audience who is technically sound enough to follow would not gain anything out of reading that they were unaware of before reading it. It's a good start. If you're looking on improving it, look up the stickies in the turbo forum that do a little more complete and concise job of explaining the components of a turbo setup.