List of possible mods - opinions?

Ok, so here's some stuff I am thinking of putting on my car at some time or another maybe throughout the next year or so. Just wanna hear what people think about them, etc.

Before providing the list, though, I'd like to make a point of what I am and am not trying to accomplish.

AM: trying to improve looks a little, up the power slightly, and improve handling marginally
AM NOT: trying to turn it into a show car, trying to race it, trying to make it look or handle worse than it does stock, make it less driveable, etc.

So, on with the list:
* AEM CAI (should I bother with bypass valve?)
* AEM Tru Power pulleys (do they make it any less driveable? Must I use special belts for them?)
* Front strut tower bar (haven't decided on a brand yet, probably go more for looks than racing performance, but still want it to be decently functional)
* Eibach Pro Kit springs (they drop what, 1.25-1.6" or so on 4cyl?)
* 18" wheels (nothing bling bling, just some nice wheels)
* Exhaust

Things I'm considering, but may not get:
* Shocks
* Front sway bar
* Rear upper and lower bars
* Headers

b

[94_AcCoRd_EX]

Alright, sounds like you're off to a good start.

Good choice with the AEM CAI. Bypass valve - only get it if it rains very hard/floods where you live. I used to have the BPV installed on mine, but I don't use it anymore.

I have the AEM pulleys, they come with the belts, they don't really make it less driveable, except the alternator will put out slightly less power.

Front strut bar - Neuspeed makes a nice rigid bar, only do this when you lower your car IMO.

Pro-kit. Nice mild drop, you don't need aftermarket struts with them, but I'd consider KYB AGX anyway. They are good struts for the price. You probably won't need a camber kit with this drop.

18" wheels are heavy and will slow you down. If you just want the looks, that's fine. I think they look better than 17" on a 6th gen Accord, but your performance will suffer a little. Try to find some light ones.

Exhaust - get a cat-back exhaust for sure, any of the nicer name brands will be ok. Consider getting a high-flow cat also.

Other bars... since you said you aren't looking for extreme handling, I'd get a DC sports header instead of those other bars you were considering.

Good luck modding

When it rains, it pours here. I wouldn't usually consider hydrolock to be a huge issue, but I'm not sure it's worth the risk. What's the HP loss due to the valve?

When it comes time for belt replacements with the pulleys, will an OEM belt suffice, or will I need to continue buying their belts? Also, how much of an effect on the alternator does it have? I'm probably going to get a pair of HID ballasts at some point, and may upgrade to a higher power audio system than factory.

What's the deal with these Ebay bars I hear so much about? Is there some standard bar that is sold on Ebay, I've seen some for around $20-$30 or so, are those the ones? I'm probably more in the market for a better looking bar than a high performance one.

I'd hope I wouldn't need a camber kit with the Pro Kit drop. If I get 18's, then the body ride height should be roughly equal to stock depending on the wraps I put on, no?

The 18's are mainly gonna be for looks, I'm not so concerned about the extra weight and rotational mass for them....although I also may get a larger rotor/caliper to go along with them at some point to assist with stopping distance a little.

What do people tend to find are the better sounding exhausts on the 6th gen 4 bangers? I'm not looking to drive an amplified tin can....I've thought of the high flow cat....I'll continue to think of that as time goes by.

How are the DC sports headers these days? I knew 2 people with '95 accords with the ceramic headers, both developed cracks within a year or two....I might just go with a non-ceramic one. Also, how will it affect my power and torque having an intake, cat-back exhaust, and maybe high flow cat? My guess would be high-rpm power would be up, with lower torque?

b

[ebpda9]

What's the deal with these Ebay bars I hear so much about? Is there some standard bar that is sold on Ebay, I've seen some for around $20-$30 or so, are those the ones? I'm probably more in the market for a better looking bar than a high performance one.

in my oppinion the bars off ebay are better since they are adjsutable, allowing you to fine tune your suspension. if u really want something that will modify the way the car behaves get a rear lower tiebar. it will prevent the car from understeering. i have one on the stock height and it's a huge difference in the way the car behaves.

I'd hope I wouldn't need a camber kit with the Pro Kit drop. If I get 18's, then the body ride height should be roughly equal to stock depending on the wraps I put on, no?

well if u use the pro kit you are on the edge of needing one. for the rear you could always use washers to corect the camber. for the front you might need one. As for the ride height it does not matter the height of the car. All it matters is the geometry of the suspension. you could use 12" rims on the car right now withoiut affecting the camber, or use 22" the same way. all it matters is the geometry of the suspension.

The 18's are mainly gonna be for looks, I'm not so concerned about the extra weight and rotational mass for them....although I also may get a larger rotor/caliper to go along with them at some point to assist with stopping distance a little.

even if u are not concerned with performance i would still get 17". I don't know about the roads there, but with 17" you will have more rubber around the rim, acting like a cushion between a bump or pothole and the rim. You will protect the rims going 17"

in my oppinion the bars off ebay are better since they are adjsutable, allowing you to fine tune your suspension. if u really want something that will modify the way the car behaves get a rear lower tiebar. it will prevent the car from understeering. i have one on the stock height and it's a huge difference in the way the car behaves.

Adjustable as in....you can adjust the length of the bar to tighten or loosen it? I assume that you saw a huge difference for the better with the rear lower tiebar? Maybe I should invest in one of those before mucking with too many other things. Any good recommendations for a 6th gen?

well if u use the pro kit you are on the edge of needing one. for the rear you could always use washers to corect the camber. for the front you might need one. As for the ride height it does not matter the height of the car. All it matters is the geometry of the suspension. you could use 12" rims on the car right now withoiut affecting the camber, or use 22" the same way. all it matters is the geometry of the suspension.

If I need a camber kit, I need a camber kit, I'll do what it takes to get it right. My ride height concerns are more centered around the occasional speed bump monstrocity that I encounter. Most of the roads I ride on are pretty decently pothole free, the roads aren't great, but they aren't that bad either.

even if u are not concerned with performance i would still get 17". I don't know about the roads there, but with 17" you will have more rubber around the rim, acting like a cushion between a bump or pothole and the rim. You will protect the rims going 17"

I recognize that as an issue, but then I go back to the decent road conditions here. If I move, though, I may be looking at a different setup depending on the local conditions. With the 18" I'm slightly concerned about the possibility of scrubbing, but then again, my bro had 18" on his 5th gen with some coil-overs, wheels were tucked well up in fender well and he had full steering range with no scrubbing.

b

[94_AcCoRd_EX]

As for the AEM pulley belts, you can't use OEM, they are a different size. You don't buy the belts from AEM though, you can buy any old belt as long as its the correct size.

If you don't care about the performance of the bars, buy the cheapest stuff you can find. IMO I wouldn't waste my money on something that won't help, and instead put that money toward a performance gaining item.

As for getting 18s... since you're getting a bigger rim and lower profile tire, the overall diameter of the tire/rim combo should be roughly the same as stock. The prokits will still drop you 1.5" lower than stock with the 18s.

DC headers are good, but I agree with the ceramic problems. I've heard similar stories. Spend the extra cash and get SS and you won't regret it.

As for the AEM pulley belts, you can't use OEM, they are a different size. You don't buy the belts from AEM though, you can buy any old belt as long as its the correct size.

Cool. But how much do the pulleys really affect alternator output?

If you don't care about the performance of the bars, buy the
cheapest stuff you can find. IMO I wouldn't waste my money on something that won't help, and instead put that money toward a performance gaining item.

True, I'd rather get a performance item. Depending on the item, though, I may care more about how it looks than how it performs....as long as nothing performs detrimentally.

As for getting 18s... since you're getting a bigger rim and lower profile tire, the overall diameter of the tire/rim combo should be roughly the same as stock. The prokits will still drop you 1.5" lower than stock with the 18s.

Well, I probably won't be getting wheels/springs for quite a while, when I get them I'd like to get them at the same time, so I've gotta save up for a bit. But in case I do need a camber kit when I do it, are there any good recommendations?

DC headers are good, but I agree with the ceramic problems. I've heard similar stories. Spend the extra cash and get SS and you won't regret it.

Yeah, if I get 'em I'll probably go with the SS. The ceramic looks nice, but I don't want to deal with the cracking problems.

b

[94_AcCoRd_EX]

Originally posted by spoogenet


Cool. But how much do the pulleys really affect alternator output?

I've had them for around a year or so, and I haven't had any problems with alternator failure, etc, which some people are worried about.

At idle, all of my lights dim. As soon as I hit the gas, everything lights up again, and I'm good to go. Basically they only affect your car at idle.