GReddy install cont....

[thermal]

FIRST PAGE: http://www.hstuners.com/forums/showt...=&threadid=105

13. Clean the surface of the exhaust port. Place the steel gasket on. Install the pre-assembled turbo kit to the exhaust port by mating the exhaust manifold to the exhaust port. You may have to pull out a few of the refrigerant brackets to get an easy access to the exhaust port. (You may relocate the refrigerant brackets later on). Coat the nuts with anti-seize and tighten it.
14. Remove the oil filter. This will produce an easier access to the oil pressure sensor. Locate the oil pressure sensor, it should be directly above the oil filter on the engine block. Unplug the oil pressure sensor. Push off the rubber boot to expose the hex head of the sensor. Remove the sensor. Clean the surface of the threaded hole.
15. There should be 2 coupler and a T concerning this part of the installation. Wrap some teflon tape or apply liquid seal on all sides of the threaded male end. If you use teflon tape, wrap it neatly. Do not apply too much teflon tape, otherwise the fitting may not screw in.
16. Make sure that these next steps are done the best way possible to avoid any leakage. The turbo life will mostly rely on this specific procedure. Ensure the fittings are free of any dirt. Assemble the oil pick-up T together. Screw the T to the engine block snugly. Re-install the oil pressure sensor to one end of the T. It should be the female side. Screw one end of the steel braided oil feed line to the T. Tighten these connections.
17. Run the oil feed line (steel braided oil line) neatly to the turbo kit. Keep the oil feed line away from any moving or rotating parts of the engine bay I.E. cam gears and pulleys. Screw the other side of the oil feed line to the banjo fitting on the turbo kit. Remember to use a liquid seal or teflon on the fitting. Tighten the fitting.
18. Install the downpipe. Finger tighten it for now. You will need to visualize the location of the oil drain hose in relation to the downpipe.
19. Connect the oil drain hose to the oil drain pipe. This is a critical task. Find a spot on the front of the oil pan for the oil drain flange. Mark this spot with a pencil. A suggested spot for this flange is, as close as possible to the top of the oil pan, HOWEVER, low enough for the oil to drain to the pan. In other words, give the hose a little angle for it not to keep the hot oil inside the hose; but rather send the oil straight to the pan. But if the flange is too low, it will always have oil in it due to the oil level that is maintain in the oil sump/pan on normal status (dipstick level).
20. Once the spot is marked for the oil drain flange, remove the downpipe. Unplug the oil drain plug again to drain any leftover oil from the sump. Drop the oil pan by unscrewing all the nuts and bolts. Do this carefully to save the oil pan gasket. You may have to take off the flywheel cover to access the rest of the nuts.
21. Clean the oil pan with rags. Cover the inside with a clean rag and begin drilling the hole(s). You’ll be drilling a single hole if u plan on welding the flange to the pan, which is the suggested way. Otherwise, drill the 3 holes carefully. Start with the middle (entry hole). Be sure to use a center punch prior to drilling. The holes for the 2 screws SHOULD be kept tight to lower the chance of leakage. Assemble the flange, gasket, and screws to the oil pan. Coat the screw thread with loctite red. Place the nut on and tighten. Remove the rags and re-clean the oil pan THOROUGHLY.
22. Place the new oil filter on. Inpect the gasket for any damages. Reposition the gasket. Apply permatex on the mating surface. Place the oil pan back on. Tighten all nuts and bolts. Tighten the oil pan plug.
23. Connect the turbo oil drain hose together. You may have to cut the hose a few inches. Keep the hose from any contacts to the downpipe. Secure the clamps. Wrap the thermal wrap around the hose at least twice. Use the zip ties to secure the thermal wrap. Add new motor oil. Inspect for leaks.
24. Reinstall the downpipe. Don’t forget the metal gasket that goes between the turbo kit and downpipe. Coat the bolts with anti-seize and tighten. Connect the downpipe to the catalytic converter.
25. Lengthen the wire on the O2 sensor. Relocate the sensor to the forward side of the downpipe.
26. Install the intake section. Tighten the hose clamps. Connect the vacuum line. There should be 2 that are T’d together. One coming from the valve cover and the other is an engine cooling vacuum. Plug in the intake temp sensor. You’ll need to fabricate an extension bracket to secure the intake section using its existing bracket. A minor task.
27. Install the intercooler. Make sure the i/c is free of dirt. There should be 2 brackets that you can utilize. The bottom bracket of the i/c should bolt right on. The top bracket will require an improvised extension bracket. Bolt it on the same hole with the horn.
28. Run the pipes. The pipes only go one way. So you shouldn’t have to worry about which one goes where. Inspect the inside of all the pipes. You may have to move some pipes around to get a good fit. I had to “hammer in” the front right side of the body frame to make one of the pipes to reach. It will not take a lot of effort. Secure all the clamps.
29. Prior to starting the engine, re-inspect all the work that you’ve completed:
1. vacuum lines
2. intake temp sensor
3. map sensor
4. all hose clamps
5. oil drain line
6. downpipe
7. oil feed line
8. waste gate rod actuator (it should not make a contact to anything)

30. Connect the negative battery terminal. This will also reset your ECU.
31. Place the car in neutral. Start the car without pressing on the accelerator. Monitor the gauges. Again, re-check the items on step 29.
32. Set your fuel system. It’s better to run it rich for the time being.
33. Make any necessary adjustments before putting the bumper back on
34. Take it for a spin. Don’t “gun it” right away. Give it a break in period. (I waited for 100 miles on mine just to be safe.)
35. Bolt the exhaust manifold heat shield on.
36. Place the mudguard on. “Cut to fit” the right corner of it. The charge pipe will prevent the mudguard to install in its normal position. So trim it.
37. Place the bumper on. You will have to trim pieces on the inside part of the bumper to avoid contact on the intercooler.
38. Enjoy!

Other related tips that will improve your set-up:
a. BOV: mark the location where you want the BOV to go before you pull out the pipe. Have it welded. The BOV vacuum line connects on the intake manifold vacuum, preferably, on the fuel pressure regulator vacuum.
b. The boost gauge can be T’d off with BOV vacuum connection also.
c. Use the blue/black box. I’m using the A’PEXi V-AFC to control my fuel curve. Most people are using the vortech FMU if not using the blue/black box.
d. If you’re planning on boosting more than 5.5 psi, I strongly advice to at least upgrade your fuel pump to avoid running lean. Also, consider getting a set of upgraded injectors.
e. Plan on getting an upgraded ignition also. This will help your whole excitation system to go in harmony with the fuel system.
f. Pick a good exhaust system. High flow cat, 2.5 inch pipe, and high flow muffler are other great investment.
g. Monitor the efficiency of your set-up. So, get some gauges. I would recommend a minimum of boost and EGT or air/fuel ratio gauges.
h. Boost does not work on idle or neutral. No matter how hard you press the gas, it will not show any boost reading on the gauge. It has to have a “LOAD” for the turbo to read pressure. The normal vacuum reading at idle is between 18-21 in/hg.
i. Lastly, for ***’s sake, get a turbo timer!
-Any other questions, e-mail me

All additional information is on my website under TECH:
Blue Box Conversions:
http://www.geocities.com/thermalfid1...ybluebox1.html
The Check Valve Method:
http://www.geocities.com/thermalfid16/check_valve.html

More related tech:
www.thermal99.com
www.turbocivic.net