What should I do?

Hello all. I'm new to this board and new to Honda's for the most part, except for my CRX I had 11 years ago . I am looking into getting a civic coupe and doing an engine swap right away.

Can you all give me opinions on what would be the best? Is an engine from an Integra GSR the best? i.e. most HP and all?

I will most likely be adding a turbo as well. So please consider that in your suggestions.

Finally, is there a difference between a Civic EX and Si other than the engine? i.e. suspension, brakes?

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

[AzCivic]

If you wanna go turbo then use the money you'd waste on a swap and build up the D16z6 or D16y8(the engine in the Ex civic) so it can handle 20psi+ daily.

As far as the differences between the Ex and Si, it depends on what year your talking about, like from 92-95 there wasnt any difference except the Si was a hatchback and the Ex wasnt. For the later civics, the engine is different and they should have different suspension/brakes(SI being better of course).

[nonovurbizniz]

the ex weighs like 1000 lbs more than the si.

it has power everything where the si is all manual.

Get a GSR or a type R they're the highest hp figures... jdm motors are a rated a little hight but it's mostly becasue of higher octane in japan making it possible to run higher compression safely and advanced timing. Sometimes don't work out so well on pump gas here not tuned right.

I wouldn't bother building the d16 turbo... ya you could get respectable numbers and all but if you do the same work to a B series block you have more tranny options (lsd) and more head possibilities... as well as more available parts and in some cases cheaper parts.... Also you'd end up putting the same if not more money into a d series yielding lower end results..

If you have the money to start with a b series swap then definatly do that... if your poor build a d16...

other than doing something different (not so different anymore) and maybe saving like $-2k (if your spending money on rods and pistons and sleeving then you have the money to start off with the superior B series block) there are NO advantages to a d series build instead of a B series.

[AzCivic]

Your not very bright are you. you just said you'd save 2k$ and then said there are not advantages of building a D block. And in reality a damn engine swap is going to cost a shit load more than 2k$, try 4000$-5000$. So lets see spend 5k$ and have like 170hp or spend about that on the D block and have 250hp. Hmmm which makes more sense? Oh and you can get a LSD for the D its called Quafe or Kaaz or Phantom or there are stock ones from japan.

If your rich dont drive a civic, buy a real sports car. if your poor drive one and use your money wisely.

I hope you meant 100lbs and not 1000lbs.

Swaps are for suckers.

[pdiggitydogg]

eh I dont think swaps are for suckers...I plan on getting a b18c1 in a while (prob a long while) and it just has way more potential than the d16...in any way.

yeah it costs a lot more...but Im gettin over 80K miles soon and I dont feel like risking the chance of wreckin stuff w/ the turbo (yes I know I can compression check and change whatever...but I want the torque the 1.8 has (a whole 134ft/lbs (hey, better than 115ft/lbs)).

If I were you...Id get a 5th gen hatch (dx or Si) and then swap in a b18c1. (Si will cost more...but it has pwr windows and moon roof...probably pwr locks too...Ive never been in one)
(as long as the motor runs decent, miles are not a factor...as long as you plan on swapping eventually...then later on after you save up some more bling...get a turbo...just dont buy ANYTHING for the motor prior...like intake or header...just run it stock until youre boostin...)

(some will tell ya go 5th gen hatch and a h22...but IMO the cost of gettin that into the hatch is too much...torque is crazy high though...

And that...is my opinion...

[AzCivic]

Thats cool if thats what you really want or think you need. your saying that the B18C1 has more potential, now really, is anyone going to take their engine to the absolute extreme where that little extra "potential" is going to make a difference. I think NO, most people want a fast car and the fact of the matter is that you can have a Very fast car with a solid D16 motor for WAYYY cheaper than a B-series. And if torque is what you want well its called boring and with a resleeved D engine you can go up to a 79mm bore which will up the displacement from 1590cc to 1766cc's, thats awefully close to the displacement of a B18 isnt is? You can do that and have better rods, pistons and still pay less than for a swap. And maybe get that turbo a little sooner.
Just some food for thought.

I think that going with the low compression D16Y8 motor would be the best for the turbo project because it's a low compression motor....great for daily boost.

Originally posted by AzCivic
Your not very bright are you. you just said you'd save 2k$ and then said there are not advantages of building a D block. And in reality a damn engine swap is going to cost a shit load more than 2k$, try 4000$-5000$. So lets see spend 5k$ and have like 170hp or spend about that on the D block and have 250hp. Hmmm which makes more sense? Oh and you can get a LSD for the D its called Quafe or Kaaz or Phantom or there are stock ones from japan.

If your rich dont drive a civic, buy a real sports car. if your poor drive one and use your money wisely.

I hope you meant 100lbs and not 1000lbs.

Swaps are for suckers.

how bout I spent 3k bud, and would've been less if I didn't pay my friend for letting me use his shop. How bout you check your replies before running of at the mouth with wrong infomation. You think you're going to get 250 hp out of a D series motor with 2 grand?? NOPE!! Sure, you can put a turbo on it and boost it at about 7-8 PSI for a daily driver and you will be putting out around 180 hp to the flywheel for around $2,250 for install and everything and no matter what anyone says, there are reliability issues with a turbo especially on an engine that was N/A in the first place. Believe me, you will end up spending about $2,800 in the end after all the tuning is done on the turbo and all the kinks finally get worked out. Not to mention you're going to end up spitting out another $800 or more on an intercooler also, then comes the BOV, then comes fuel management, dyno time etc. all the while I have my swap for less, putting out roughly a little less hp, staying N/A, not having reliability issues or tuning issues. Anyways, to get 250 hp out of a D series motor, you're gonna have to push at least 15 psi and to push that safely, you're going to have to buy a turbo, Intercooler, BOV, forged rods, forged and lower compression pistons, EGT gauge, forged crank, stronger clutch (MUCH stronger than stock), STICKY tires, aftermarket axles, FPR, fuel rail, dyno time, someone to install the turbo and tune it. Still think swaps are for suckers man??

PS, I'm rich, I drive a Civic, I like Civics...got a problem?

i like my civic!!!

i like my nitrous too!!!!

i like to race turbo cars!

they like how my tail lights look!!!

[silver]

well jdm you beat me to him, but I'll chime in anyways.

I would like to know first off how a swap cost $5k?
a complete motor swap plus labor for a b16a2 is going for around $1600. If you can do it yourself you're looking at under a grand.

your reasoning for running high boost makes no sense. boost does not determine the amount of power made, it's the compression along with the boost(to put it VERY simple). yeah you could boost 20psi at a 8:1 ratio, or boost 12psi at a 10:1 ratio and make the same amount of power for example.

plus the original question is what would be best for turboing in terms of a motor. the oil squirters on the b18c1 along with the less amount of overlap as opposed to the c5 makes it the best motor to turbo unless you are just looking for a b16, which would then mean go for the a2 as opposed to the b for the same reason.

and how can you resleeve a motor, get new pistons and rods for less than $1600, I wanna shop where you are. resleeving go for around $600 if I remember correctly, and I think that is on the cheap side.

[Addict]

If you're serious about this project, do some more research. Alot of people choose the B18B over the B18C for turbo. Lower compression off the bat, oil squirters, etc.

The Si has all the power options that the EX has. The springs are slightly stiffer than the EX model. The Si has 4 wheel disc brakes also. There's more differences, but that's the basics(aside from the motor).

Originally posted by chahonda
i like my civic!!!

i like my nitrous too!!!!

i like to race turbo cars!

they like how my tail lights look!!!

Are you ok?

^^^^ 5th Gen Civic Si is just a hatch, springs are the same, motor is the same, power options are the same, and 5th Gen EX's have 4 wheel discs also.

Also, the reason people choose the B18B over the B18C is due to lower compression, the B18C has oil squirters. Boost the same PSI on these motors and the b18C is still making more power. People are just afraid of the high CR and don't want to fry rings or blow a gasket

they REALLY don't want to blow the welds on the intake manifold though <----- that was a joke for the slow people

[AzCivic]

Originally posted by JDMB16
how bout I spent 3k bud, and would've been less if I didn't pay my friend for letting me use his shop. How bout you check your replies before running of at the mouth with wrong infomation. You think you're going to get 250 hp out of a D series motor with 2 grand?? NOPE!! Sure, you can put a turbo on it and boost it at about 7-8 PSI for a daily driver and you will be putting out around 180 hp to the flywheel for around $2,250 for install and everything and no matter what anyone says, there are reliability issues with a turbo especially on an engine that was N/A in the first place. Believe me, you will end up spending about $2,800 in the end after all the tuning is done on the turbo and all the kinks finally get worked out. Not to mention you're going to end up spitting out another $800 or more on an intercooler also, then comes the BOV, then comes fuel management, dyno time etc. all the while I have my swap for less, putting out roughly a little less hp, staying N/A, not having reliability issues or tuning issues. Anyways, to get 250 hp out of a D series motor, you're gonna have to push at least 15 psi and to push that safely, you're going to have to buy a turbo, Intercooler, BOV, forged rods, forged and lower compression pistons, EGT gauge, forged crank, stronger clutch (MUCH stronger than stock), STICKY tires, aftermarket axles, FPR, fuel rail, dyno time, someone to install the turbo and tune it. Still think swaps are for suckers man??

PS, I'm rich, I drive a Civic, I like Civics...got a problem?

Woohoo you spent 3k$ and now got what 140hp-150hp to the wheels if your lucky?? And lets not even mention how much piddly torque that engine puts out. Now lets go back to what i said: For the price(actually cheaper) of a beat down swap from god knows where, you can have a TOTALLY rebuilt D engine(hey that includes half the shit you listed) that CAN HANDLE 30psi if need be, although 15 would be enough for most. AND NO YOU DONT NEED A NEW DAMN CRANK, OR AXLES, OR "STICKY" TIRES, OR A FUEL RAIL. so if your end plan is turbo then the engine doesnt really matter just that its strong enough for boost. And please dont make it sound like turbo kits are just soo expensive when you can get a complete(that means everything) kit from Fmax for like 3100$.

[AzCivic]

Originally posted by silver
well jdm you beat me to him, but I'll chime in anyways.

I would like to know first off how a swap cost $5k?
a complete motor swap plus labor for a b16a2 is going for around $1600. If you can do it yourself you're looking at under a grand.

your reasoning for running high boost makes no sense. boost does not determine the amount of power made, it's the compression along with the boost(to put it VERY simple). yeah you could boost 20psi at a 8:1 ratio, or boost 12psi at a 10:1 ratio and make the same amount of power for example.

plus the original question is what would be best for turboing in terms of a motor. the oil squirters on the b18c1 along with the less amount of overlap as opposed to the c5 makes it the best motor to turbo unless you are just looking for a b16, which would then mean go for the a2 as opposed to the b for the same reason.

and how can you resleeve a motor, get new pistons and rods for less than $1600, I wanna shop where you are. resleeving go for around $600 if I remember correctly, and I think that is on the cheap side.

VERY GOOD you remembered something you read off another post woohooo you get mad props yo! I didnt even talk about low compression or high compression now did I ???? Now where are you getting a B16 for less than a 1k$???? You must live in the land of make believe or some shit. Oh and where did i say you can get a rebuilt engine for $1600??? Actually i never gave a price( its around $2500). Please have some real info before posting again.

[Addict]

Originally posted by JDMB16
^^^^ 5th Gen Civic Si is just a hatch, springs are the same, motor is the same, power options are the same, and 5th Gen EX's have 4 wheel discs also.

Also, the reason people choose the B18B over the B18C is due to lower compression, the B18C has oil squirters. Boost the same PSI on these motors and the b18C is still making more power. People are just afraid of the high CR and don't want to fry rings or blow a gasket

they REALLY don't want to blow the welds on the intake manifold though <----- that was a joke for the slow people

Yeah I forgot to mention that I wastalkig about the 6th Gen. I just assumed that's what he meant.

Yeah those damn welds on the intake manifolds are weak.

Originally posted by Addict


Are you ok?

yea i'm fine.....and how are you???

you have no idea how much i'm spraying!!!

Originally posted by AzCivic
Woohoo you spent 3k$ and now got what 140hp-150hp to the wheels if your lucky?? And lets not even mention how much piddly torque that engine puts out. Now lets go back to what i said: For the price(actually cheaper) of a beat down swap from god knows where, you can have a TOTALLY rebuilt D engine(hey that includes half the shit you listed) that CAN HANDLE 30psi if need be, although 15 would be enough for most. AND NO YOU DONT NEED A NEW DAMN CRANK, OR AXLES, OR "STICKY" TIRES, OR A FUEL RAIL. so if your end plan is turbo then the engine doesnt really matter just that its strong enough for boost. And please dont make it sound like turbo kits are just soo expensive when you can get a complete(that means everything) kit from Fmax for like 3100$.

wow dude, you really have no clue what you are talking about do you? Why won't you take the time and read my post and educate yourself with what I say ok? So, you must think that your little D16 puts out a bunch of tq eh? lol, this is too funny.

::sigh:: you are sitting here telling me that you can rebuild the engine to make it handle that much PSI...SHIT, it's going to cost about 2 grand or MORE for the parts and labor!! Why didn't you include the cost of the turbo in there, why not the Intercooler, why not the BOV etc?? Why didn't you include the cost of install of all that stuff?? Wait, I know why, it's because in the end, it will end up costing about 8 grand to push 15 PSI reliably!! You don't think you need a forged crank when you are pushing that much PSI?? Why is that, you must think the D series motors are pretty strong, which they aren't THAT strong, so tell me why you think that. You don't think you need new, stronger axles?? Why is that?? Go ahead man, do it on stock axles, when you keep breaking halfshaft after halfshaft everytime you push the car really hard at the track or on the street, you can come here and say "I'm sorry Sam, you were right, I was wrong, I apologize, next time I will listen to you and not post innacurrate information". You don't think you're going to need stickier tires?? Why do you think that?? You must not want to hook up AT ALL and run shitty ass times...is that what you would want to do?? You don't need a fuel rail either huh?? Why do you say that?? You must want to use the stock fuel rail, FPR and injectors and not produce an ample supply of fuel to the engine causing a severe case of detonation and blowing the motor up on the first run. Is that what you want to do?? Is that what you want this guy to do or something?? I mean, if people follow info like you're providing, then there's going to be a lot of blown motors and broken halfshafts here.

Did I say that they were SOOOO expensive?? Nope, I gave the average prices man, but I can tell you now that you're going to be spending money on the install, dyno time (to TUNE IT!!) and various other things...you act like you can just slap on a turbo and be done with it...well, you're in for a RUDE awakening bro, obviously you have 0 experience!! I'm not TRYING to be a dickhead, I just know what I'm talking about and you're wrong. Well, I'm off from work to go home in about 15

Originally posted by Addict
Yeah I forgot to mention that I wastalkig about the 6th Gen. I just assumed that's what he meant.

Yeah those damn welds on the intake manifolds are weak.

ah, ok, my bad

[Addict]

Originally posted by chahonda
yea i'm fine.....and how are you???

you have no idea how much i'm spraying!!!

Just messin' with you man.
BTW, how much are you spraying?

[AzCivic]

Originally posted by JDMB16
wow dude, you really have no clue what you are talking about do you? Why won't you take the time and read my post and educate yourself with what I say ok? So, you must think that your little D16 puts out a bunch of tq eh? lol, this is too funny.

::sigh:: you are sitting here telling me that you can rebuild the engine to make it handle that much PSI...SHIT, it's going to cost about 2 grand or MORE for the parts and labor!! Why didn't you include the cost of the turbo in there, why not the Intercooler, why not the BOV etc?? Why didn't you include the cost of install of all that stuff?? Wait, I know why, it's because in the end, it will end up costing about 8 grand to push 15 PSI reliably!! You don't think you need a forged crank when you are pushing that much PSI?? Why is that, you must think the D series motors are pretty strong, which they aren't THAT strong, so tell me why you think that. You don't think you need new, stronger axles?? Why is that?? Go ahead man, do it on stock axles, when you keep breaking halfshaft after halfshaft everytime you push the car really hard at the track or on the street, you can come here and say "I'm sorry Sam, you were right, I was wrong, I apologize, next time I will listen to you and not post innacurrate information". You don't think you're going to need stickier tires?? Why do you think that?? You must not want to hook up AT ALL and run shitty ass times...is that what you would want to do?? You don't need a fuel rail either huh?? Why do you say that?? You must want to use the stock fuel rail, FPR and injectors and not produce an ample supply of fuel to the engine causing a severe case of detonation and blowing the motor up on the first run. Is that what you want to do?? Is that what you want this guy to do or something?? I mean, if people follow info like you're providing, then there's going to be a lot of blown motors and broken halfshafts here.

Did I say that they were SOOOO expensive?? Nope, I gave the average prices man, but I can tell you now that you're going to be spending money on the install, dyno time (to TUNE IT!!) and various other things...you act like you can just slap on a turbo and be done with it...well, you're in for a RUDE awakening bro, obviously you have 0 experience!! I'm not TRYING to be a dickhead, I just know what I'm talking about and you're wrong. Well, I'm off from work to go home in about 15

Never said that the D16 puts out alot of torque now did I. It does as a matter of fact put out a LITTLE less than a B16 though, and with a 79mm bore will put out way more than a b16 does.

Oh MY GOD 2 whole grand(more like $2500) for a bullet proof motor!!! Thats soo much money!!! Mean while you can spend the same and have a shitty beat down B16. Whats the better engine, hmmm. Well its gotta be the B because thats what everyone says and it has piston squirters and everything right? As far as your stupid comment on axles and cranks, there are quite a few people i know of who run the stock axles and stock crank and make pretty damn good HP on the d engine.(maybe your confusing yourself with a H series swap where the axles have to be upgraded, not because of the power but because of the F'd up angle theyre at in a civic)

So lets just look at the damn #'s shall we, you like to throw them around so much lets see what they REALLY say.

B16 engine swap: $3000 , getting the beat down engine rebuilt to handle decent boost: another $3000, Fmax turbo kit(which is actually a bolt on kit that comes with extra injectors and a comp to run them, no need for a fuel rail or other crap) $3100.

D16 engine: free , Re build $2500, turbo kit: $3100 Beating some fool spouting off shit about B series this and B series that: Priceless.

And whats the weight difference between a B and D engine??? Close to 100lbs isnt it? So not only do you pay more you also throw the weight dist out of whack even more than what it was.

Now I left out shit that each engine is going to need like a clutch, LSD etc.
So you can't install a turbo kit all of a sudden, it just has to be done someone else???

AND Yes I do think the D series engine is pretty strong.

And so do the fine people at ZEX with their CRX: http://www.zex.com/Community/Gallery/

Looks like they can run Low 11's possible high 10 sec 1/4mile times, with a STOCK crank.

oh me oh my lol, learn some tech and come back to me k?

Let's disect your post and own you again

1. I won't even respond to your ignorance of tq and bore, don't know where that came from

2. first, if you want a bulletproof motor, you're going to spend much more than $2,500 guy. Second, when you spend that 2,500 on a motor with forged and lower comp pistons and forged rods etc, what are you gonna have?? STILL A D16 BUT WITH LESS HP THAN STOCK SINCE IT HAS IT'S COMPRESSION LOWERED!! What's the better engine, hmmmmm.

3. Piston squirters?? Shit, I wish I had a piston squirter so I could have a new piston everytime I wanted one, I'd be rich off selling them!! You mean OIL SQUIRTERS!?!?!?! lol

4. Ooooohhhhh, I bet you that they are running a whopping 150 to the wheels or something right?? WOW, that's SO much!! When you're talking about pushing 15 psi, you're going to need aftermarket axles or they will wear and break prematurely. Second, NO, I'm not confusing it with any H series swap into a Civic, especially since YOU CAN'T USE THE AXLES FROM AN H SERIES MOTOR ON A CIVIC!!!

5. YES, let's throw them around smart guy <--- extremely sarcastic BTW

I don't see where you get off talking about turboing the B16 since that was not in the conversation, but whatever's clever, I won't even respond to that.

I will copy this since I don't feel like typing.

D16 engine: free , Re build $2500, turbo kit: $3100 Beating some fool spouting off shit about B series this and B series that: Priceless.

^^^ riiiiiiight this is more like it bud

D16 engine: free , Re build $2500, turbo kit: $3100 which equals $5,600

B16 swap: $3000, nitrous kit $500, ignition and plugs $100, saving $1900 and still pushing out more HP and shutting the kid up who doesn't know what he's talking about....PRICELESS!!

6. no, the weight difference is about 60 lbs there smart guy

7. you don't NEED a LSD, but it would be pretty nice to have

8. never said you COULDN'T do it by yourself, but it's pretty difficult.

and YES, you don't know what you're talking about...ok, they have stock crank...WOW, that's not going to last very long. Looks to me like the motor isn't quite as strong as you think there bud...looks to me like they have

stainless steel valves, head studs, aftermarket pistons and aftermarket rods...UH OOOHHHH, and what's this I see?? Looks to me like it ALSO has aftermarket axles!!

BTW, the only reason I'm responding to your uninformed, unexperienced ignorance, is so that you don't post misinformation and have someone blow their motor up on your behalf since you posted a bunch of bull that you have no experience in doing yourself and have a complete lack of knowledge of!! I mean, WOW, you have done SO much to your car man, you are so experienced...give me a damn break, you have a header and exhaust and a lightened flywheel, you probably still payed someone else to do that didn't you?? Geez, post about something you actually know what you're talking about man, don't lead people the wrong way. But yeah, if you want to get owned again and again, keep posting, I have a little bit of time on my hands

Originally posted by Addict
Just messin' with you man.
BTW, how much are you spraying?

85 shot for now....ill be changing the jets out for a nice even 100 shot here soon!!! nothing like smoking the tires at 40 mph!!!!

[AzCivic]

1. Do you live in a land where an increase in displacement doesnt mean an increase of torque(and HP of course)????

2. Ummm, do a little looking and you'll find complete blocks for $2500. Up the compression to 12:1 if you want Naturally aspirated power, do whatever. The point is to have a stong engine ready for boost.

3. You know what the hell i meant. thats pretty lame.

4. EDIT: its only part of the axle they use. My bad.

5. Some more #'s for you. D engine free, rebuild 2500$, Nitrous kit $500... Save $500 and be able to run twice the amount of nitrous as a stock B series(fuel being there of course). Once and for all shutting you up...

6. 60, 100 whatever point is its an INCREASE in weight.

7. duh

8. their also making more HP then you'll ever get out of a civic. Point is they are using the stock crank in a D series motor making 400+hp.

Bonus answer: http://www.hstuners.com/forums/showt...ne d+flywheel

please dont be an internet retard and use the phrase "owned" its pretty damn old and just ignorant.

[pdiggitydogg]

ok guys just relax...

the point that either of you can make is that going either way, biuld or swap youre going to be faster...both are very good points and it comes down to personal choice in the end.

now quit bickering

1. my point was that, that was not in the debate in the first place

2. ummm, my point was that if you spend that $2500 on building the internals to be able to handle that kind of boost, you would have a D series motor with nothing more than built internals and still less hp than a B16 all the while spending almost as much as my swap costed me

3. yes that was lame, once again, know what you're talking about before you say something

4. you can use part of or the whole axle from a H series motor

5. yes, be able to run twice as much, all the while I always have my power on tap and ready to go along with the reliability of a stock Honda motor, but once again, you act like you can just slap it on and it will be all good. Yup, you can build the D series motor to take a 125 shot for 2500, then buy a kit for 500, but then you're gonna need colder plugs and an aftermarket ignition which will be another 100, then you're going to need some good wires which will be about another 80, then you will need to increase the fuel delivery which will be about another 250 for everything, then you'll have to invest in a new clutch will be about 400, and then you would have to get some dyno time to tune it (unless you want to risk running lean and getting detonation) and that will be about another 70 for 3 pulls and you will have to retard the timing which will cost more money unless you rent or buy a timing gun to do it yourself. That comes out to about $900 in all. NOW, I can have my swap for $3000, nitrous kit for $500, set of colder plugs and ignition for about $100, retard my timing a little which I didn't include with the D16 so I won't with the B16 and still run with the stock clutch, have $300 left over and still have the same amount of power as the D16 so try again man, you were SO close!!

6. That is a very minimal weight difference and won't do shit

7. Glad you finally agree with the person who is right

8. How do you know that?? If I wanted to waste my money, I could go out, get a turbo, run 20 psi with built internals along with a big shot of nitrous, heavy duty clutch and everything needed to do it safely and reliably, push more to the wheels than they are and still have plenty of money left in my account, so where do you get off saying that?? Sorry, I save my money for things worthwhile that are good investments...I use my pocket change for aftermarket shit on my car.

9. WTF are you linking me to that thread for? What does that have to do with anything?

10. Calling me an internet retard just because you have no experience and no clue on this subject at hand and I keep proving you wrong is uncalled for.





pdiggity, sorry if I tell the truth...guess ya don't want that here or something

[pdiggitydogg]

Originally posted by JDMB16
pdiggity, sorry if I tell the truth...guess ya don't want that here or something

dude...both of you are telling "truths" and if you dont see that its you that is really misinformed

"if you cant say something nice, dont say anything at all"

[AzCivic]

1. so what, it can be included with a rebuild so whatever.

2. HELLO! After a swap you have a beat down ass motor that was probably ripped out of a wrecked car, that cant handle much boost. Your sitting here trying to say that a stock B series engine is a better engine than a rebuilt D series, and thats a bunch of bullshit.

3. I guess you "owned" me huh? i mess up on a name and youre all over it. You the man!

4. who cares

5. you are not making sense, you keep throwing out numbers for some shit you dont need and ramble on for awhile.

6. its an increase and its not negligible.

7. sure, but i guess "Sticky" tires are needed before an LSD right?

8. cause you dont have any common sense thats how i know. i dont give a crap about what you do with your money.

9. you tried to say i paid someone to install the flywheel, do you remember?

10. Good job, you proved what i was saying.

THE TRUTH IS YOU DONT NEED A DAMN B SERIES ENGINE TO BE FAST OR RELIABLE, AND CAN BE JUST AS FAST WITH LESS MONEY WITH A D ENGINE.

heh, is that right? Don't make me pick apart each and every one of his posts again and point out every single thing he has said that is incorrect. I'm not trying to be a mod here, I can care less if I get banned here, I just don't want someone posting a bunch of BS on a subject that they obviously have no experience or abundance of knowledge in and mislead people leading to them blowing up their motor. If you don't want me correcting people or posting the TRUTH, I'll be more than happy to leave this site along with all of my knowledge to make way for people to post innacurate information and stay on my own forum and educate and help people out there. Hey, if that's what you would like, then just say the word, I don't mind. Also, I believe he is the one resorting to calling me an "internet retard" because he gets offended with someone proving him wrong.

man you guys kill me. i dont care what you guys do or what you spend there will always be another that will be better/faster than you. it all comes down to preference/convenience.
i personally like the d series engines due to the mass quantities of them. i can take my d16 and run the hell out of it, if i blow it , so what! i'll have another one in it within 2 days. (helps to work in a salvage yard )

i am still on my original engine that i spray 85 shot on all of the time. now granted i do have larger injectors(290cc) and fuel pump(255lph), bigger throttle body(62mm), adjustable fpr(set at 40 base pressure)

i have many other things but that i'll tell later

noiw i'm not saying that i dont like the b series engines because i do. i will be getting one in the near future

my point is do what you want to do. as long as YOU are happy then that's all that matters. but for christs sake don't argue about it like little children.

well sorry for the long post. thank you and drive to the second window please

CAN'T WE ALL JUST GET ALONG????

[AzCivic]

Yeah you've spread alot of crap and its not "truth". And you havent posted anything useful since the beginning of this argument.

[pdiggitydogg]

yay! guess what?

cant get along...cant let it be...cant even see that the person that started the thread, hasnt said anything new...I'm done with this one

CLOSED