.:HSTuners::::Hondas Wanted:: |
09-26-2003, 07:18 PM | #1 |
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Noisy motor
Heres the deal, My check engine light came on sometime ago,
I Ignored it for some time. After a while I noticed the lack of HP So I did a complete tune-up on it and nothing. About 2 days later The #1 plug was bieng smashed by the piston so I changed it out and it did the same thing. I took out all the plugs and cranked it for about 5 minutes( to get out any built up carbon on p-head). I put in a new plug and it quit smashing it. Now Im back to the original problem of no HP Plus an additional slight knocking from that side of the block. I took it by Autozone to have the code read and they said it was 02 or egr valve, would this cause the problems that I am having?. as In the smashing of the plug. how about a bent or sticky valve or a stuck Injector? Any Suggestions Before I have a new motor built ??? |
09-29-2003, 09:32 AM | #2 |
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The check engine light refers to the emissions systems, so if there's a problem with the EGR or O2 sensor then it'll cause the CEL to go off. I'm not aware of much else that'll cause it to go off.
Now pistons slamming into plugs.....I have no clue, that's certainly not my department. Anything I would come up with would merely be a guess.....I wouldn't expect O2 or EGR to affect that, but that's a guess. Good luck! b |
09-29-2003, 11:59 PM | #3 |
Repost Wagon
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: over here
Age: 44
Posts: 17,266
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well do u have a prelude S or the Si ? if it's the S i have the same problem with the noise in my f22a1. they need some bad valve adjustaments and the noise will go away. i am not aware of any piston slap tho
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10-26-2003, 01:25 AM | #4 |
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Well I found that I have a bearing going bad.
So I am going to replace the whole motor. Does anybody know where I can find on with 40k or less miles on it. Its a H23A. |
11-03-2003, 07:08 PM | #5 |
6th Gear
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cleveland, OH
Age: 38
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I dunno where u could find one but one word of advice is go with the H22a from a prelude that is vtec. If the H23 are vtec they might not be DOHC. I think they are the new engines from the 03 accords if i'm not mistaken.
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SHIFT_MyNuts Some people call it an obsession I just call it my maxima 1997 Maxima SE 5spd, Stillen Body Kit, Warpspeed Y & B pipes, Magnaflow Muffler, Koni Yellows & Tein S-tech springs, JVC Headunit, Directed 7" in dash screen,Stillen Intake, red/clear tail lights, AE mod, Paceseter STS, EL-Glow Gauges, Clutchmasters FX300 Clutch, rebuilt tranny, 19" Mille Miglia Evo 5's with Pirelli Pzero's(summer), 18" Hp D-10 hyper silver wrapped in Goodyear ultra HPR, SPW front strut bar, Helios 7000k HID, Motostorm UDP, Viper 5000Vx alarm, 2 12" PowerClass 124 subs, Kenwood 1200 Watt amp, DVD Changer |
11-03-2003, 07:25 PM | #6 |
6th Gear
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Location: Cleveland, OH
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Oh my bad it's not the h23 on the 03 accord it might be the f23a or something around that. but yeah u would be better off with a h22 bro.
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SHIFT_MyNuts Some people call it an obsession I just call it my maxima 1997 Maxima SE 5spd, Stillen Body Kit, Warpspeed Y & B pipes, Magnaflow Muffler, Koni Yellows & Tein S-tech springs, JVC Headunit, Directed 7" in dash screen,Stillen Intake, red/clear tail lights, AE mod, Paceseter STS, EL-Glow Gauges, Clutchmasters FX300 Clutch, rebuilt tranny, 19" Mille Miglia Evo 5's with Pirelli Pzero's(summer), 18" Hp D-10 hyper silver wrapped in Goodyear ultra HPR, SPW front strut bar, Helios 7000k HID, Motostorm UDP, Viper 5000Vx alarm, 2 12" PowerClass 124 subs, Kenwood 1200 Watt amp, DVD Changer |
11-04-2003, 03:01 PM | #7 |
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knocking noise coming from the engine...that's valve shit??
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12-30-2003, 05:45 PM | #8 |
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don't know how far along you've made it with this repair, but my suggestion is too repair the obvious, mildly sand the crank journal w/ emory cloth ( if not badly scarred) re-assemble the rod cap using plasti-gage and check clearance, then replace rod bearings. check colors on all others. shouldn't cost more than $100 for bearings, an oil pan gasket $17 and an oil pump pick-up tube gasket $ 3.00 from the dealer. re-torque to factory specs, but if you have heavy mods done to engine a lil' insurance would be to install ARP rod bolts and a new Oil pump.Good luck.
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01-07-2004, 07:20 AM | #9 |
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it wont hurt to check all your motor mounts to, that could be the accelerant (SP?) to why this all started
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01-18-2004, 10:53 AM | #10 |
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motor mounts causing piston damage to plugs and bad rod bearing? U have got to be kidding.
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01-18-2004, 11:00 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
no its not. loose or worn valvetrain has a distinct sound to it. Like tapping, or ticking, it may also get quite loud in very worn out valvetrain. Loud knocking usually comes from the major rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, ect..). They are very different sounds. Best way to find out where its coming from is use a piece of 2 by 4 (about 12 inches long) and hold one side against the engine and put your ear against the other. Use that to trace to where the noise is coming from. U would be suprised how much u can hear. |
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01-18-2004, 11:15 AM | #12 | |
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Re: Noisy motor
Quote:
damaged spark plug possibilites: -wrong spark plug (too deep into cylinder) -o2 sensor bad while driving a long time on it causes carbon build-up on the piston, valves, and head, ect. The reason this happens cuz your ecu goes into an open fuel map and runs very rich, causing carbon build up. To tell u the truth I have never heard of so much carbon build that it hits the spark plug before the valves. Usually its the valves or the head that get damaged first. But in this case who really knows. -Also a bad bearing could be causing some slop in the rod causing it to interfere with the plug. Most of the time when this happens it can damge the head or the valves, like I said i havent heard of the spark plug happening first. Thats a new one on me, but like I said who really knows in this case. final result: Proper maintenace is very important. even for a little old check light for an o2 sensor. These problems can lead to bigger problems and more money. It sounds like u have been running with your knocking sound for quite some time. So it sounds like u have thrown a rod bearing and continued to drive on it. Bad choice. Your crank most definately needs machining, as well as possible damage to the rod. After driving it for a while like this u have probably beat the machining surface into crap. Your best bet is to get a new engine or a total tear down (full rebuild) and even then I dont know if your crank and rod is still good. The only one that could tell u that would be a machine shop. Using Emery cloth wont do it. It will not fix the crank journal that u have damaged. Dont even try it at this point. Good luck and remeber maintenance is very important. |
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