Blown Headgasket!!!!!!!!! Fuq!!!!

My RaCe engineer and I have concluded that my head gasket is blown. The symptoms are listed as follows.

1) WHITE SMOKE FROM MY EXHAUST
2) DIRTY COOLANT
3) Unstable Idle, My oil pressure goes up,down,up,down

DamN! but my car is still runnin hard and like a captain on a sinkin ship i will never abandon my ride. EVEN if i get stuck on the freeway. = ) hehehee

NOw im stuck with couple of options.

1) THICKER GASKET and BOOST 12lbs OR
2) GET LS PISTONS AND BOOST 12lbs safely OR
3) FUKK the cheesy Shit and GET JE pistons and crower rods, resleeved, blockguard, honed, which basically will be my whole financial aid check and BOoST the maximum my lil TDO4 can boost @15lbs OR
4)PHUC THE hastle of Getting all the Internals And jUSt get a JG BLOCK for $2100 but then if i do this then i might just well as get a bigger turbo and boost my goal @ 2 bar = 28lbs. WHICH means more money i don't have OR
5)Screw my SOHC motor, SEll my kit and just get a b16b and a REVHARD STAGE II KIT but later OR
6) OR JUST see how long it takes for the motor to BLOW.

MY budget is $2500. WHAT would You do?? keep in mind that i still need to get an intercooler, EVC, IGNITION, and FUEL upgrade. But then i also have emergency money hidden somewhere in the hills COME On nOW this is the GOdFAthEr your talkin to. heheheehehe

THERMAL, BOOSTED, WOOKIE, ANYONE please help me. What should i dO?
p.s. SOrry THis thread is kind of long. But then again this is my forum. HEheehahahe. PEACE YALLS.

[Racing Rice]

Id say get as much as you can.. The more stuff the better...

OK heres the plan, trust me it will work.


low cr JE pistons 500.00
Eagle rods 350.00
Hondata 1000.00
larger injectors 400.00
new hybrid turbo 750.00
block guard 100.00
stock headgasket 50-70
Grand total 3,350 or so


Ok so I went a little over but you can sell your little greddy turbo stuff and almost make up the difference. With this set up I would have no fears with boosting over 20 psi. Granted you will need to get a few odds and ends but that is what credit cards and girlfriends are for.

didn't i say that it was your headgasket that was going?? hehe, well bro, what i would do is keep the Greddy Turbo, cuz you gotta have a lil faith in that lil td04. Secondly, im waiting for my headgasket to go also, then imma get piston, rods, and seals, that should hold up for 14 lbs boost. Thirdly, you can just get a thicker headgasket and a blockgaurd and run around 10 lbs ok. Its up to you and your budget man, but if i were you, please don't ditch the greddy kit, it has alot of potential with the correct amount of tunning. My friend has the same set up as you and I, and he's running mid to upper 12's. But, if you have the money, since you're already gonna take off the head, you might as well stuff it with something a lil stronger. Also, if you decide to put the LS rods in there, you will have to modify a couple things, really not worth it. Like i said from the beggining, its really all up to you and your budget and the money you have hidden in the hills.. hahaa.. laterz

I agree 100% with Boosted3G. Try and save alittle more and go that way. I haven't blown the bottom end yet, but this winter I'm forging the bottom end. Fack the VTEC head....too many reliability issues NA, let alone with FI.

Eagle ods
JE pistons
Honda rings
STR Block Guard
ARP Bolts
-----------------
15 lbs!!


Can't wait!!

If you get anything at all get at least a Power FC or better yet DFI or something. You will have total control of everything and no check engine lights. No half asses piggy back electronics and you can run some monster injectors with a good idle and no skyrocketing fuel pressures. Usually you can almost buy everything for the loot you get selling all of the stuff you can take out.

[2000Pimpinex]

Definately get rid of the greddy turbo cause I want it. HEHE If you got the money, then swap and turbo it with a drag kit.

Originally posted by 2000Pimpinex
Definately get rid of the greddy turbo cause I want it. HEHE If you got the money, then swap and turbo it with a drag kit.

hahahha you'll be the first one to know.

Thanks for your replys fellas. Im really stuck right now on what i should do. you guys think i should be able to run 14lbs with hondata and pistons and rods and blockguard only?????? But what pisses me off is that if i do build by bottom end i should boost more than 14lbs. and to do that i need a bigger turbo. which means i need a new exhaust manifold and a wastegate and the piping. DamN! i NEed Money. Maybe i should become a male gigalo. ANYONE know any fine females whose willing to pay for some pleasure???? heheheheheh j/k. Keep those suggestions coming cuz i need all the support i can get from my fellow hondastyle MObStErs. PeaCe.

Anything over 10 psi id get a larger turbo than the Greddy kit. Even a 20G is small when compared to a T4 housing. Size does matter with turbos.

Originally posted by MrCLoWnY

Thanks for your replys fellas. Im really stuck right now on what i should do. you guys think i should be able to run 14lbs with hondata and pistons and rods and blockguard only??????

Hey CloWnY. What I would do is get the thcker gasket and go the route MatT3T4 went. Didn't he run at 1 bar for a year on a stock engine? Of course you get the fuel management and tune it right and of course you know that you will eventually blow the engine at some point but then you will have the $$$ to get the engine swap you are talking about, right? I mean you could wait on the financial aid check Next year to do the swap and get a bigger turbo. Did Matt have pistons and rods? I thought he said he ran 1 bar on a stock engine. Anyway, then I would know how far to take mine .

Yo!!!
I held off on my turbo intstall untill I can build the internals, I cant afford to have a blown motor, even though it is cheap.
My opinion is that you spen the money on quality parts, a breakdown was given to you for internals. Beef up your cooling system, which could have been partly why you had a blown head gasket. Upgrade your radiator, and install a lower temp thermostat.
Easier said than done I know, but take the precautions, I don't think changing your turbo is wise, that is a lot of money, salvage and beef up what you have. Perfect the D16y8 turbo setup before moving to a b16.

JG all the way DAMNIT!
Damn things can handle 30 psi +
Your turbo can handle up to 15 psi. With a block like that and 15 psi daily, hell, you will love every minute of it. Then when you have more money, buy a bigger turbo. Oh yeah, buy a used intercooler. Much cheaper!

[Addict]

Heh. Anyhow. I would go for the buildup on your internals. Didn't your sig used to say that you wanted 11s on your SOHC? I wanna see that sh!t. Build it up....... Keep the faith.....

Sure your turbo will put out 15 psi but it will get to the point that it is too small. You can make more power with a t3/t4 turbo at 10-12 psi than you can with the Greddy at 15.

[Addict]

Originally posted by Boosted3g
Sure your turbo will put out 15 psi but it will get to the point that it is too small. You can make more power with a t3/t4 turbo at 10-12 psi than you can with the Greddy at 15.

How does a bigger turbo make more power at a lower PSI than a smaller one at a higher PSI? Just curious.

Originally posted by Civic_Addict


How does a bigger turbo make more power at a lower PSI than a smaller one at a higher PSI? Just curious.

higher RPMs which unless he built the shit out of his motor a T3/T4 is way too big for that D16y8, I returned mine for that fact. peak boost at 5-6k? ha ha, no way. What is the point?

The point is if your racing your going to be reving 6K and up and that is where you will make your most power. The reason that a larger turbo will in most cases make more power at the same boost level as a smaller turbo is the fact that a large turbo is not working as hard and heating tha air alot less. It will all boil down to cfm once the boost is really high. I always install large turbos on all our cars. My reasoning is if you are putting a turbo on the car in the first place you must want to go fast...right.

[Addict]

So it just takes advantage of the high RPMs to make the extra power. Hmm. Thanks for the info...

WEll. LIKE CIVIC ADDICT said I think i cant sell out my SOHC peoples so i think engine swap is definitely out of the question. My ideal setup would be a jg head and block and revhard stage II kit boosting 2 bars with either HONDATA or DFI running the fuel management. I think i can probably go either 11's or even tens with that setup. But for right now this is my plan. i think. im gonna get a thicker head gasket, hondata or DFI and boost 12lbs on my stock internals. And i'll just wait till my engine blows. i think with this setup i should be about to hit 13's. ANd when my engine does blow i guess i just have to give my parents or my big bro a call and tell em that my car ainting runnin no more and therefore i cant go to school. That usually works for them But anyways. thank you for your replies and i'll let you guys updated. PEACE.

I have come to a conclusion that i am going to be buying the JG block soon. I thought about building the block my self by pistons and rods and putting them in myself but the cost of the JG block is comparable so im gonna get that. Im thinking that i need around $2500 for the block and other miscellaneous parts. I think a month at the most and that baby should be in my car. I'll keep ya guys updated. Wish me luck. Peace..

trust me you will not regret it. I have the same exact block and boost very high. I had fun with my greddy turbo for a long time till I craved for more than 15 psi of boost.

sorry to ask this dumb question.. but when u guys say getting a 'block', what doesthat mean???
I have heard so many mods to the engine when u want to boost higher.. can somebody tell me what exact steps u should do...
changing the fuel pump? upgrading ignition system? changing pistons? pistons rings? rods? camshafts? what's the real thing? and u guys were saying "block".. wow.. new word.. haha..
anyways, let me know.. coz i am dumb

Hey whats up xbird. a little late but welcome to hondastyle. Ok, let me see if I can answer your question. The block is the lower part of your engine. The bottom half of the motor where the pistons and the rods are. To understand how u can boost more you'll need to know how an engine works. In order to have combustion in your engine you need three variables. SPARK, FUEL, and AIr. Turbo is what you call an FOrced Induction application where as the name states forcing compressed air into the engine. As you FOrce more air you need to raise the amount of The other two variables i just talked about. SPArk and Fuel. THat is y you change the fuel pump, get a fuel pressure regulator, larger injectors and some kind of fuel management unit like vortech FMU or ApEx vafc. That will take care of your fuel needs but it will get a little complicated in a little bit. You'll also need to upgrade your ignition like you said. People ususally go with MSD and its pretty simple. That will fulfill your 3 basic components. Know that the Greddy Turbo kit comes with a very small turbo and the stock boost is set at 5.5lbs. At that low boost you really won't need to upgrade nothin. It will run fine. The Greddy Comes with a blue box that works as a fmu and is good up to 8 lbs of boost. So as long as you don't boost more than that you should be ok. HOwever, if you can afford it it is highly recommened that you upgrade your ignition and your fuel pump. NOw if you want to boost more than 8 lbs then your gonna have to do some serious work. It is very easy to fulfill your spark and air requirement but putting in the proper amount of fuel is a little tricky. As you boost more there are more chances of detonation in your motor. This happens when you don't have a proper mixture of the three components we talked about. This is where A Standalone Fuel management comes into place, which will actually completely replace your stock ecu or takes complete control over it allowing you to tune it on a dyno to find that perfect combination. This will help you fine tune your car so that you motor never detonates. only downside is that it cost an arm and a leg. Also as you boost more you need to Build your motor. Which means to change your internals ( pistons, rods). By replacing these parts in your motor you are making it stronger which makes it able to take more boost. I hope this has helped.

nice info u said.. i understand how a engine works.. but i am a chinese, doesn't get what u guys meant by "block", now i got it ! thanks !!

Originally posted by Boosted3g
The point is if your racing your going to be reving 6K and up and that is where you will make your most power. The reason that a larger turbo will in most cases make more power at the same boost level as a smaller turbo is the fact that a large turbo is not working as hard and heating tha air alot less. It will all boil down to cfm once the boost is really high. I always install large turbos on all our cars. My reasoning is if you are putting a turbo on the car in the first place you must want to go fast...right.

I agree.
Would you agree with me that your car would not be suited for a short auto X course do to the turbo setup on your car?

Also your Teg motor has more tq than the Civic D16 motors which crave more tq low, also I say a smaller turbo is more important, because of gearing, when I shift out of first bouncing off the limiter at 7,000rpms and I am dropped to 4000Rpms I need boost then, no lag, to compinsate for the cars engineered weakness.

I guess my point is I was not making a generalization that bigger turbos mean that you are going to be slower, but in many circumstances you will be, beacuse you are not mating the turbo to mend the waekness only to beef up its strong spot.

I am using the Civic powerplant as reference here as well as the trans, in autoX conditions

[Addict]

How about this...
http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm