Nitrous Frequently Asked Questions : Please Read Prior to Posting

[Addict]

Nitrous FAQ
Copyright ©2000-2002
Hopefully this will help to clear up some basic questions. I didn't go too in depth, I just wanted to help everyone get a basic understanding. This will hopefully be a growing FAQ. If I've missed something, e-mail me.

What is nitrous oxide and how does it work?
Nitrous oxide (N2O) is a clear, colorless, oxidizing liquefied gas with a slightly sweet odor composed of two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen. The product is stable and inert at room temperature. While classified by the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) as a nonflammable gas, nitrous oxide will support combustion and can detonate at temperatures in excess of 650° C (1202° F).

Nitrous Oxide releases extra oxygen molecules at approximately 572° Fahrenheit. When nitrous is introduced in to the engine the initial combustion temperatures break the nitrous into its to primary components, nitrogen and oxygen. Once this happens the additional oxygen reacts with the fuel.

It is important to remember that it is not the nitrous oxide that creates the power it is the fuel. Nitrous oxide allows more fuel to be burned thus increasing cylinder pressure and forcing the pistons down with greater force. More fuel = more power.

Also NOS is a brand. It is NOT the term for nitrous oxide.

1 Shot = 1 HP

All this talk about wet, dry, direct port, plate kits… What is this stuff?
Dry – This method injects the nitrous through the air intake. A hole is drilled and tapped and a nitrous nozzle is installed. The ideal place to mount this is 6”-12” from the throttle body. If you vehicle has a Mass Airflow Sensor, it must be mounted between that and the throttle body. Good up to 75 Shot.

Wet – This method injects the nitrous with the fuel. Works like the DRY system only this adds fuel with the nitrous. This is usually done through the fuel rail. When using nitrous shots of 75 and above this is preferred over dry. The typical shot range is 35-75 shot shot with a wet kit.

Direct Port – This system uses special injectors to add nitrous and additional fuel to each intake runner. This type of system is ideal in extreme nitrous conditions (i.e. 125+ shot of nitrous) because it flows the nitrous and fuel very evenly across all cylinders. Typical shot shize starts at 80.

Plate Kits – Similar to Direct Port. These mount between the intake manifold and the head. They use special spray bars to introduce the nitrous and fuel into the intake air stream. this tye is only available for the Integra GSR and various domestics.

How long can I spray nitrous?
Typically you only want to spray for a maximum of 10-15 seconds and after 3000 RPMs. Also you do NOT want to spray near your rev limiter or your speed limiter. This is because they both are fuel cutoff points. This will cause you car to instantly run lean. You can help manage this by purchasing an ignition system with a rev limiter built in such as the MSD 6AL. This cuts the sparks at the specified RPM rather than the fuel.

What should I upgrade or purchase with my nitrous kit?
Required Items –
92 Octane or Higher Gas: This may sound stupid to some, but this is a MUST. Too low of an octane rating will likely cause pre-ignition/detonation. In other words, this simple step here can save your engine.
Colder Spark Plugs: 55 Shot and below – One Step Colder
65 Shot and higher – Two Steps Colder
Retard your timing: Follow your nitrous kit manufacturer’s recommendations for this.
Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge: A definite for applications above 55 shot. Helps determine fuel/air mix.
Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge: Some prefer this over the A/F gauge. By looking at the temp of the exhaust gases you can determine if you are running lean or rich.

Suggested Items –
Purge kit: Clears the line of “stale”(nitrous in vapor form) nitrous. Yes, you will notice a difference. Good to clear the line at the end of the night so you relieve the pressure on solenoids.
Bottle Heater: Maintains bottle pressure so you get a constant pressure while spraying. Also helps to get all of the juice out of the bottle.
Nitrous pressure gauge: Pretty obvious what this is.
Remote bottle opener: You never know when someone is going to want to race you. It looks bad when you have to get out and go to your trunk to open your bottle.
Ignition upgrades: As mentioned earlier these will help you maintain your engine. Systems from MSD offer a Soft-Touch Rev limiter for more protection. In addition they offer a much more powerful spark when teamed with a new coil.
Fuel pressure regulator: While not necessary with the dry kits, they will be needed when running higher shots.
Bigger injectors: Helps with the fuel flow. You maximum horsepower is limited by how much fuel you can deliver.

How much nitrous can I run on my engine?
As much as you like. This, however, may not make your engine run for very long. Most stock Honda/Acura engines can safely handle 75 shot. Always check with the kit manufacturer prior. They know their systems and can recommend the safest amount for your car.

Another thing to take into consideration is the working condition of the engine. Always run a compression test on your engine prior. No matter the age or mileage. I have seen engines with 60k miles do worse in this test that engines with 100k.

Which kit should I get?
What are your future plans? What is your ultimate goal with you car? Do you plan on doing some serious engine work like new pistons, rods, cams, etc? Systems like Nitrous Express and NOS tend to be more upgradeable than the ZEX and the Venom systems. ZEX is by far the easiest to install. The venom is probably the most complicated. NOS and NX are right in the middle. I'm not going to tell you what kit is the best or will give you the most power. Find the kit that will meet your needs and your budget.

LINKS
Venom Performance
NOS
ZEX
MSD Ignitions
Nitrous Express (NX)
Autometer Gauges