.:HSTuners::

*Whtehnda93DXSdn* · 10-16-2002, 10:09 AM

OK I got a bare block JDM B16 and I'm going to build it up to eventually run a turbo set up. I need to get crank rods pistons and all. I have to get a head for the block as well.

I was wondering if anyone had any idea of what internals and all I should get and maybe which head to put on it. Jus tthe B16 or B18 or what..

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...

10-16-2002, 01:38 PM

Get a B17 crank to increase the stroke...sleeve the block, make sure the sleeves are bored out 84...Go with some H-beam forged eagle rods, and forged pistons....then work from there....just a thought...

2ndGenTeg · 10-16-2002, 02:08 PM

I would sleeve to 85mm. This will still allow adequate cooling. For turbo, you could go with either the B17 or the B18 crank, since high redline isn't as much of a concern. However, the B18A/B crank may cause a rod ratio alittle on the short side since the deck height of the B16A isn't as tall. I, too, like the Eagle rods, and I personally prefer the Arias pistons. A B16A head is just as good as the others and can generally be found for cheaper. Use the money you save on it for a good port and polish job. Springs and retainers are really optional, but recommended, since high revs aren't as much of a concern.

*Whtehnda93DXSdn* · 10-16-2002, 03:28 PM

I can use that info to build off of and I do appreciate that.

Any more info would be great....

10-16-2002, 11:36 PM

Yes, I agree...Arias pistons, although expensive..are a good choice to go with.....As far as anything else, you will have to take into account the valve to piston clearance...make sure you have a machine shop blueprint the block for you and have them match up everything....Thats probally the easiest way to go and will save you the pain in the ass.

2ndGenTeg · 10-17-2002, 01:09 PM

With turbo, valve to piston clearance shouldn't be an issue since you'll be running relatively low compression. If you run super aggressive turbo cams, it could possibly become an issue, but I seriously doubt it since a turbo build that aggressive will more than likely involve turning up the boost and further lowering compression. If you choose to run turbo cams, though, definitely swap out springs and retainers.

10-19-2002, 09:59 AM

The B16 block has about 7mm lower deck height than other B-series blocks. The crank will bolt in but the rod length will most likely have to be custom. The B16 has an almost perfect R/S ratio. It would be a shame to ruin it. The head flows very well. If you are going to sleeve, sleeve to 84mm. This gives you the ability to hone twice down the road. And you won't need custom pistons or rods. If I were building the motor I would use, Eagle rods, GE sleeves, 84 JE pistons with Swain coatings, B16 head w/ ferrea SS valves and portflow springs.

or just build it with the stock sleeves if they are in good condition.

11-08-2002, 09:45 PM

INSTEAD OF SPENDING ALL THIS MONEY ON CHANGING THE CRANK JUST SELL YOUR BLOCK AND PURCHASE AN LS BLOCK AND SOME PISTONS AND RODS AND YOU WILL SAVE A LOT MORE MONEY AND IT WILL BE TWICE AS RELIABLE.

11-09-2002, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by GEARHEINZ
INSTEAD OF SPENDING ALL THIS MONEY ON CHANGING THE CRANK JUST SELL YOUR BLOCK AND PURCHASE AN LS BLOCK AND SOME PISTONS AND RODS AND YOU WILL SAVE A LOT MORE MONEY AND IT WILL BE TWICE AS RELIABLE.

How would it be twice as reliable ??

10-16-2002, 10:09 AM	#1
Whtehnda93DXSdn It has 4 Doors... Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fredericksburg,Va Age: 49 Posts: 907	Bare B16 block..need ideas.. OK I got a bare block JDM B16 and I'm going to build it up to eventually run a turbo set up. I need to get crank rods pistons and all. I have to get a head for the block as well. I was wondering if anyone had any idea of what internals and all I should get and maybe which head to put on it. Jus tthe B16 or B18 or what.. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated... __________________ Another good forum site: Tuners Alliance

10-16-2002, 03:28 PM	#4
Whtehnda93DXSdn It has 4 Doors... Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fredericksburg,Va Age: 49 Posts: 907	I can use that info to build off of and I do appreciate that. Any more info would be great.... __________________ Another good forum site: Tuners Alliance

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10-16-2002, 01:38 PM	#2
Spicdaddy1507 Posts: n/a	Get a B17 crank to increase the stroke...sleeve the block, make sure the sleeves are bored out 84...Go with some H-beam forged eagle rods, and forged pistons....then work from there....just a thought...

10-16-2002, 02:08 PM	#3
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 44 Posts: 830	I would sleeve to 85mm. This will still allow adequate cooling. For turbo, you could go with either the B17 or the B18 crank, since high redline isn't as much of a concern. However, the B18A/B crank may cause a rod ratio alittle on the short side since the deck height of the B16A isn't as tall. I, too, like the Eagle rods, and I personally prefer the Arias pistons. A B16A head is just as good as the others and can generally be found for cheaper. Use the money you save on it for a good port and polish job. Springs and retainers are really optional, but recommended, since high revs aren't as much of a concern.

10-16-2002, 11:36 PM	#5
Spicdaddy1507 Posts: n/a	Yes, I agree...Arias pistons, although expensive..are a good choice to go with.....As far as anything else, you will have to take into account the valve to piston clearance...make sure you have a machine shop blueprint the block for you and have them match up everything....Thats probally the easiest way to go and will save you the pain in the ass.

10-17-2002, 01:09 PM	#6
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 44 Posts: 830	With turbo, valve to piston clearance shouldn't be an issue since you'll be running relatively low compression. If you run super aggressive turbo cams, it could possibly become an issue, but I seriously doubt it since a turbo build that aggressive will more than likely involve turning up the boost and further lowering compression. If you choose to run turbo cams, though, definitely swap out springs and retainers.

10-19-2002, 09:59 AM	#7
Dr Drew Posts: n/a	The B16 block has about 7mm lower deck height than other B-series blocks. The crank will bolt in but the rod length will most likely have to be custom. The B16 has an almost perfect R/S ratio. It would be a shame to ruin it. The head flows very well. If you are going to sleeve, sleeve to 84mm. This gives you the ability to hone twice down the road. And you won't need custom pistons or rods. If I were building the motor I would use, Eagle rods, GE sleeves, 84 JE pistons with Swain coatings, B16 head w/ ferrea SS valves and portflow springs. or just build it with the stock sleeves if they are in good condition.

11-08-2002, 09:45 PM	#8
GEARHEINZ Posts: n/a	INSTEAD OF SPENDING ALL THIS MONEY ON CHANGING THE CRANK JUST SELL YOUR BLOCK AND PURCHASE AN LS BLOCK AND SOME PISTONS AND RODS AND YOU WILL SAVE A LOT MORE MONEY AND IT WILL BE TWICE AS RELIABLE.