For B16dochCRX

This is what I have learned from reading up on B16's and most B series motors, let me know if i have anything wrong. But, this isnt aimed for anyone in the community but B16DOCHCRX. So, if im wrong about anything or you have somethign you wanna add please correct me. Thx.

Alright, well, basically the B16 in my opinion besides the b18c1 and b18c5 (b18 being a GS-r, b18c5 being a type-r) is one of the kings of the honda motors. Because it is so ridiculously open to modification and can fit in basically any honda ever made. Well, not everything but most.

The first thing that a lot of kids all over these boards, and everywhere even though they think they "know" anything about cars most don't, this board they do, so if u ever need advice ask here. Now, most kids you know that think they know everything probably know a good bit about what bolt-ons do, and how they work, etc... but the true power comes from a combination. Think of your motor, like a strategy video game. It all depends on how you want to attack. Meaning, if you grab the biggest turbo you can find and slap it onto your motor and think you'll get huge gains ur wrong. Instead, you need to build up your fuel system, internals and such.

Which is what i am getting too. The real power lies within the electronic tuning, and internals of all B-series motors. (with the exception of the LS motor which totally blows cak, dont let anyone tell you different.) If you have a combination of bolt-ons internals, and headwork you have a fast ass car.

i honestly think i am not going to find an SRT-4, so i may go with a hatch, i will be working on one with a GSR or Type-r motor, if not, the b16 is going to be the motor gracing my garage, so this is MY idea of what the best of the best is for the b16.

Ok well of course, i am a huge fan of turbos. But it's kids who dont know what they're doing that piss me off. Ok, basically this is what usually happens.

Scenario: U pull up next to car you think you can beat, but not on 7psi (pounds per square inch) so you turn up the boost with a controller to 10 PSI but your motor is not ready for it and BAM, bye bye rods.

So, you basically have to get everything first then install it little by little. Alright so, lets get into the tech specs.

The b16 has 160 horsepower to the flywheel, now a normally aspirated motor runs at about 14.6-14.7 psi of the atmosphere pushing air into the vaccuum created by the cylinders. so i fyou are running 1-bar or 14.7 PSI added to the original 14.7 we should be able to techniqually double the horsepower. Basically think of it like this. If we added an additional 14.7 psi it would increase your output from 160hp to approx. 320-325hp. Now if you ran 2 bars above that would add another 160hp. So 480hp if your running 29.4psi. BUT what you HAVE to understand is that no stock B-series motor is built to withstand 30 psi of boost pressure. No motor is. So, if we take the b16 and increase the normally aspirated power using bolt ons like, cams, sprockets and an intake manifold those aspirated gains will almost be doubled once turbo is added, or any additonal psi is added.so if you added those bolt ons you would go from 160 to about 200. Then by adding a bar of pressure (14.7psi) instead of having 360 horsepower you would have 400 instead.

Alright but still in order to get your motor running large amounts of HP you will have to get all the right things in ur motor to make it ready to withstand all that HP.

First, block should get sleeves to ensure the rings sealing under boost. then you will want to look into getting forged internals like a steel crank, connecting rods and low compression pistons (which are good when adding turbo anyway). The low comp. pistons will allow you to make more powe rin the long run, which is something that may not be able to happen with high static compression.

Now the most expensive thing besides the turbo would be, this is if your really going for raw power and bragging rights :-p, to get the head extrude hone porting. It improves the flow rate of the head to like 25-30 crm per runner. You would want to if you wanted optimum performance to get a 3 angle valve job and maybe a set of valve springs and titanium retainers. So you would want a stage 2 intake cam with a stage 1 exhaust came So

So now that you have a ported cylinder head you would need a larger intake manifold and a larger throttle body, like 42-68mm, preferable a billet throttle body. Then of course try to get a fuel rail and like 72-pound injectors.(240cc injectors). If you have all this you will be around 450-500 horsepower.

so then you would want a fuel regulator and a fuel pump.

so now comes the easiest part, picking ur turbo.

You cannot expect a t25-t28, or even a t3 turbo to keep up with the demands of a 400hp motor. They are desinged to create like 250-300 horsepower. My preference would be a t-66 with like a stage 5 turbine wheel which will help it spool. Then of course you want your general turbo upgrades like a wastegate and a good turbo manifold. you want to position the wasted gate in the center in the collector because that will provide the best boost control. you can get an electronic wastegate controller to dial in boost pressure. now i would highly recommened a front mount intercooler because they are amazing with HP gain, id say another good 18hp can come out of it if hard piping is used.

Now one of the best companies that makes performance enhancing electronics is Hondata, their piggy back ECus and standard ECus are tuned for optimum performance. And it is programmable, which you can dial in both air/fuel and timing curves. Once this is in, your gonna be amazingly fast, so, you will need a high powered ignition system. SO plug wires plugs and the igintion system. So basically you if all this is done, you are going to have a 520 horsepower motor running only 22 psi. Which in most kids who dont know anything is amazing. Thats a lot of HP for that amount of boost pressure, BUT, it is going to be safely reinforced by everything that you have done to the motor.

I know this was long, and i know that it may seem expensive but if you buy it piece by piece and be patient it will defintely be able to be complete in like 1 year and half on a 5.25 dollar an hour salary. I'll get you my friends stats later.

PS a lot of the information is from an article i read awhile back in Import Racer written by Richard Holdener, so if your looking for more help i highly suggest getting that magazine, or honda tuning magazine.

[2ndGenTeg]

LOL- that's one of the most incoherent, obviously regurgitated posts I've ever read. Do you have any idea what you just said?

IMO, the LS motors is one of the best for boosting, and B16s work better for all-motor builds. You're right about one thing, though- internals, bolt-ons, and headwork will make a fast car- it's called an all motor build- but still not anywhere near as fast as a turbo with a whole lot less money put into it.

Think for yourself, understand what you're saying, and post something original. The pieces are all there- now think about them, understand them, and put them together. Plagarism is for idiots who want to sound like they know what they're talking about- I give you more credit than that.

[pdiggitydogg]

you sir, are a fool
lsturbo is a very good setup

A b16 turbo will be faster, thats true. But, the LS turbo will last longer with the same tuning and parts because of the lower compression, thicker rods, and simple lack of vtec+turbo aka "double wammy" on turbo hondas which is 2 stressors on a motor that was never designed for boost.
(thats why racing pro's turn vtec off on their turbo gsr's)