DIY Installing Hood Pins

[pdiggitydogg]

I HIGHLY recommend you install hood pins on any non-steel, non-oem hood (ie carbon fiber, fiberflass).

- The following is assuming that you already have your hood installed -

Required:
Hood Pins (duh)
Rotory Tool (Dremel or similar) w/ THIN Stone-grinding bit
Drill w/ 1/8" bit
Appropriate Socket and wrench
BLUE thread-lock
1 helper
Painters tape

Optional:
Stubby 1/8"diameter screws and screwdriver
OR
Stainless Steel/Aluminum 1/8" pop-rivets and pop-riveter
(I opted for the rivets, since they will not crack the hood, where screws can, if over tightened). Its not expensive to buy, if you dont already have one. They are a very useful tool to own anyways.
---

Your pins should come w/ 4 nuts (2 for each)...
Start by threading on 1 nut on each stud, until there is around 2-3" of distance from the nut to the top of the stud. Use your best judgment here...studs vary.

Slide your stud into one of the pre-existing holes, at the top of your radiator support. (You can drill new ones...but there are corresponding places on your hood that should match, if it of good quality AND these holes are already symetrical).
Install the bottom nut, snuggly - hand tight, we're only test fitting.

Now is when you need to decide if you want your pins to face side-to-side, or up and down.
I like side-to-side, so I can see that theyre latched quicker (plus if they get loose, theyre more likely to stay put, instead of bounce out.)

Take some thick grease (white lithium, crisco, etc) and tab some on the top of the studs.
This is so you can see where the hood will hit, so you can grind out your holes.
GENTLY let the hood down onto the studs.
Lift and see your markings.

Now, depending again, on the quality of your hood, it shouldve landed, at least in the general area of, a correlated spot.

There will be 2 layers to grind through w/ your bit:
Under Skeleton
Hood top layer

I suggest you make the holes in the skeleton larger than they really need to be. Double the width, 1.5x as tall. This way its easier to see at the bottom of the hood's top layer.
Be careful, when you start to grind, that you do not burst to quickly through the skeleton. You do not want to make the hole through both layers at once!
While you grind under the hood, your helper should be holding it up for you, so you can concentrate....or just make them do something.

Once you have done a hole on each side, put some more grease on the studs and set the hood down again, marking the bottom of the hood's top layer.

Lay out your painters tape on top of the hood, where the stud's hole will be. This is so you dont spider the surface. I used a lot to cover a large surface...its probably a good idea to do the same.

Start ginding again...being even more careful than last time...
You do NOT want to make these holes too big. Your pin tops will cover it up, so they can be slightly larger than the studs, but dont get crazy.

I found it much easier to grind a starting hole from the bottom, and then work from on top. This way, I could check the size of the hole compared to the pin size easily, instead of lifting and setting the hood down 14thousand times.
You will definately want your helper to hold the hood up for you here...you cannot grind a hole while it sits on the stud (duh).

Once you've done both sides, its time to mess around with the stud height. This is pure trial and error.

Once thats good, its time to put the tops on. Slide the pins though and drill holes for your rivets/screws. (1/8"). Remove the tops.

Take the tape off slowly andd replace the tops.

Install screws/rivets.

Now, on mine, I couldnt get a rivet into the single hole, at the one end, because the tip would not fit. I left it as is, with 2 holding it. Its not like this is a load-bearing peice, so it should be fine.
If you wanna put a screw there, go ahead...or if you have a gun extension (if they make such a thing) that'd be great.

TIGHTEN YOUR STUD NUTS AND USE THREAD-LOCK!



Thats it.
Enjoy in the feeling of safe driving.

You really can do this, as long as you are careful and youre not an idiot.
It does take time, patience, and a steady hand.
Take breaks if you need to.



(Oh yeah...if you F**k up...its not my fault. This is EXACTLY as I did it on my car.)