.:HSTuners::::Hondas Wanted:: |
02-19-2003, 07:56 PM | #1 |
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Do I have a head problem
I'm looking to buy a '90 Honda Civic Hatchback and was checking out the car today. The seller told me that it burns a little oil and i took the oil cap off, with the engine running and it blew out air not so much but it was some. I was wondering if this could be due to my valves or is the air normal. Also could this be the reason that it is burning oil. Also what would be needed to rebuild the top end if that was the problem
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02-19-2003, 08:53 PM | #2 |
Repost Wagon
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that sounds like blowby to me. run someting in your fuel system cleaner that takes care of the carbon deposits inside your engine.
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02-19-2003, 09:05 PM | #3 |
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i heard about the ATF trick do you think that would be a good idea to try on my engine
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02-19-2003, 09:16 PM | #4 |
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yup, but i'd go with something less hardcore
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02-19-2003, 09:16 PM | #5 |
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how many miles do u have ?
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02-19-2003, 09:25 PM | #6 |
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atf trick
Anyone have a link with detailed instructions?
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02-19-2003, 09:30 PM | #7 |
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the car has 150,000. if this doesn't solve the problem do i have burnt rings or do i need to grind the valves. because i plan on polshing the heads anyway. what gaskets would i need
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02-19-2003, 09:35 PM | #8 |
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here is that link for the ATF trick http://crx.honda-perf.org/faq/data/5.html
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02-19-2003, 09:41 PM | #9 |
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yup i know about the atf trick. if u plan on porting i'd do the rings, hone the cylinders, grind the crank and get a new set of main and rod bearings.
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02-20-2003, 02:05 PM | #10 |
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what would happen if i do everything but grind the crank? i wouldn't need to if it was within spec correct? what gaskets would i need and what problems might i run into
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02-20-2003, 02:08 PM | #11 |
Repost Wagon
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well yeah if the crank is in spec i wouldn't touch it. you should replace all the gaskets and the water pump, and look int oil pump too while the engine is apart.
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02-20-2003, 02:14 PM | #12 |
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is this car worth it? it is a 1990 honda civic 2-door hatchback with manual trans. the front fender is a little banged up and the driver side trim is missing. the engine burns oil and it has 150,000 miles on it. The positive thing are a cold air intake custom pedals tinted windows and a brand spanking new raditor. the car is valued at $1,500 and im only paying $600 for it
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02-20-2003, 02:19 PM | #13 |
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im looking into buying the NAPA Engine Kits Re-Main Kit w/ Prem Rings, Rod/Main Brgs & Gskt for $275 is that a good idea or do i need more than just that
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02-20-2003, 02:41 PM | #14 |
Repost Wagon
Join Date: Dec 2001
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well with all the money that you put into it better get a b16 or a b18 engine. a lot happier in the long run
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02-20-2003, 02:52 PM | #15 |
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i looked up and just for the kit to install a b16 or b18 it is $500 i was thinking of putting a D16Z6 into it. I can buy the engine for about $100 plus $35 core. But i think i can sell the engine for more than $35. and it will bolt up directly
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02-22-2003, 10:34 PM | #16 |
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a lot of guys that swap motors keep their stock motors around, just to have a spare in case something breaks. try the atf trick first. it's a hole lot cheaper than rebuilding the whole engine and if it works, you saved yourself a lot of time and money. if it doesn't then you only lost a few dollars for the atf. the d16z6 should bolt in fine. what model is your civic? unless it's an HF or SI, you'll have to rewire for four injectors or buy a wiring harness from hasport. you'll also need the SI ecu and an rpm activated switch for the vtec or an aftermarket ecu such as zdyne or hondata. the tranny from the z6 won't work in your car. it has a hydraulic clutch, and the 4th gens have cable. your stock tranny will bolt up the the z6 block. i'd go with the z6 rather than completely tear into your stock engine unless you have an SI, then i'd build a mini-me. slightly more powerful than the z6, but that's a whole different story
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02-23-2003, 09:01 AM | #17 |
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It is a 1990 Honda Civic 2-door Hatchback (STD?) so i would need to buy the wiring harness and the ECU and a RPM activiated switch for vtech? I can reuse my trans. Wiring Subharness for HF/Si with VTEC engine, ZDYNE One wire Conversion would these work? plus where would i find the RPM switch for vtech? should i just get the D16Z for $135 and put another $425 in just the conversion or find another D15 in it for $135. Could i use the ECU/Wiring Harness/VTEC switch from the D16Z car
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02-23-2003, 11:51 PM | #18 |
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wow, your only paying 600 for it, and it has so called aftermarket accessories? thats a great deal, but of course I got screwed on mine (dealerships.....) A friend of mine is putting an ls/vtec into his 91 STD hatch, and I'm thinking of putting a nonvtec b18a1 in mine. hasport makes good mounts, and that will be a killer swap once the motor is built.
These cars are awesome to build up because theya re so light and so simple. You have all sorts of swap options, as most everyone has mentioned. I think the only direct bolt ins (not requiring mount kits) are: ZC's (not sure on years, but you can use the brown top ones from tegs, although I think they are sohc) 88-91 Si's 1.5 sohc vtec (not sure on engine code) the prob is you'll have to do some wiring for any one of those swaps, because If you are not Si, then you need to do a multi point conversion. |
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