Turbo B18B

[slowEJ6]

anyone running a turbo LS setup? just wondering what mods you have done and such and what yer running boost wise. i plan on going with this when i get my 5g 4dr.
i plan on running stock internals......no build up whatsoever, just fuel upgrades and ignition and the reg. bolt ons.

[Racing Rice]

Originally posted by hybrid3do0rcx
anyone running a turbo LS setup? just wondering what mods you have done and such and what yer running boost wise. i plan on going with this when i get my 5g 4dr.
i plan on running stock internals......no build up whatsoever, just fuel upgrades and ignition and the reg. bolt ons.

thats the motor our infamous Boosted3G is running..

[slowEJ6]

Boosted3g needs to come to this forum, this thread, and enlighten me on his setup

thats what i am doing as well.

Ls turbo baby.

my set up is looking like this....

LS is getting honed out this week for the Endyn Roller wave pistons, connected to eagle h-beam rods strapped down with a nuformz block guard. All mouted with ITR mounts.
up top, I have a 99 ls head (block is 94) fitted with ITR valve spring reatiners and the rest of the vale train is stock ls.
Skunk 2 intake manifold, complete gasket kit, including thicker head gasket. UR ultra SS pulleys... and ummm... I'm sure im missing a few things..
Turbo set up is looking like this: custom. the only way to go if you are serious about boost.
garreet T3/t4 hybrid .63 AR, stage 3 ex wheel.
hondata stage 4/b
rc 440s, maybe even 550s... we'll see
CM stage 3 clutch, 11lb fly wheel
tial 35 mm waste gate
blitz BOV
blitz turbo timer
spearco front-mount intercooler
custom piping from JC whitney

And again, im sure im missing something.

feel free to give me a holla about anything-
AIM: pissedoffsol
email: webmaster@hondaswap.com
***shameless plug.. ^^^^^^^^^
comming feb 2002


EDIT:
I'm going to run 15-18 psi.
you mentioned you want stock internals... dont go higher than 7. 8 with a hondata stage2/b and fuel upgrades

LS rod bolts SUCK!! know that now.
and don't say i didn't warn you when you heard a clicking noise.

Id 100% try to encourage you to at least replace the rods/wrist pins/rod blots.

[ebpda9]

O.T.: what is LS ? What does it stand for ?

[Racing Rice]

Originally posted by hondaman-iac
O.T.: what is LS ? What does it stand for ?

Its just another trim model of the integra like GSR, kinda like A Civic LX is to a Civic EX.. the LS motor doesnt have VTEC.

[slowEJ6]

Originally posted by eastcoastdelsol
EDIT:
I'm going to run 15-18 psi.
you mentioned you want stock internals... dont go higher than 7. 8 with a hondata stage2/b and fuel upgrades

LS rod bolts SUCK!! know that now.
and don't say i didn't warn you when you heard a clicking noise.

Id 100% try to encourage you to at least replace the rods/wrist pins/rod blots.

LS can handle 13psi on stock internals. without a problem. i know more than a handful of people running that much @ the track on STOCK internals.

why are you running a skunk2 manifold? its for NA cars? you are better off with the Venom manifold, it flows a hell of a lot better.

i will hit you up on AIM though when i get home.

[thermal]

b18b engine is my favorite next to b20z for turbo purposes. it can handle a lot of boost for stock internals. i saw somebody who ran 16 psi on stock and ran 12's un-tuned! it was a b18b swap on a HB. i am not implying that it was safe to do that, but a low compression b18b can take it....IMO. i would not boost higher than 10 psi on stock tho. i like to play it safe......

OK im here. This is the basics of my old motor.

1997 B18B with stock sleeves
-crower rods
-SRP 9.2:1 forged pistons
-Nuforms block guard
-JG Pro Series head
-Crower 403 cams, stock cam gears
-Crower dual valves springs
-Apexi Power FC
-DRAG Gen 3 turbo kit
-RC 550cc injectors
-Skunk 2 manifold
-STR fuel rail
-Holley FI 255lph fuel pump
-3" downpipe
-3" Thermal exhaust with no cat
-BBK 62mm throttlebody

Wtih jsut these mods i went 11.6 @ 123 on 3 cylinders though 3rd and 4th gears before the plug in cylinder 4 failed. This was done at 22 psi on 24.5 MT ET slicks. I honestly feel that car may have been capable of a low 11 or maybe a high 10 second run. I am sticking with the non vtec for next year also. No matter what anyone will tell you stick with the B18B and do some headwork.

[slowEJ6]

Boosted, did you go turbo before doing internal work?
im wondering what people are running on just a b18b/T, stock internals.


that is a very sweet setup though. 11.6 is OK! why the skunk2 manifold though?

We have run stock internal LS motors up to 15 psi and they lasted a while but eventually they cracked a ring land or two. I would say that if you are planning on staying below 12psi then youll be ok as long as you take the time to get it tuned properly. I forgot to look where you are from but if you are near Pa then bring it on up to our shop and ill get you some time on our dyno. I chose the Skuink manifold because it is a little better than the stock one. I recently scraped that for a sheetmetal one but I had no complaints about the Skunk2 manifold. It seemed to bring out the mid to top end more.

[slowEJ6]

im in FL......i dont know of many dyno tuners in the area though. the only one i know of is mainly a mustang tuner and well, i dont own a mustang nor trust a place that doesnt do honda work to tune my car really. PA huh? thats like what.....a 20hr drive from here?
anyways, i do plan on staying @ 12psi or below. only thing im leaning towards is a Venom intake manifold, fuel mods, ignition upgrade.....and thats about it.
how much would it run for dyno time?

Damn Florida thats a little far. Tell you what if you want to drive all the way up to PA i can get you dyno time at half price. I see nothing wrong with the Venom manifold except that it needs to be pened up right where it meets the head. I have a Venom manifold to throw on and it looks good except for that spot.

I have an LS. Does a porting and polishing of the head do anything to weaken it when a turbo is in place? I'm pretty sure it doesn't but I'd rather be safe.
What would be your recommendations to switch out as far as internals go, if I wanted to put some stronger stuff in on the parts that are more likely to break sooner.
I'm thinking pistons and valve springs, and what about valves? I'm also gonna change out the head gasket also.
And also, what turbo setup would you recommend, as far as companies?
As far as engine build up, I'm got a Centerforce dual friction clutch and lightweight flywheel, which I've had for about a year and a half because I knew I'd be going FI one of these days.
Other than that the internals are still stock. Also, I've got a Greddy SP exhaust, which is I believe 2.5 inches......do you know to what PSI this will put the boost at? I really don't wanna go any higher than about 7 or 8 PSI.

hi all,

i've just been looking at this post and i'm really interested in what you guys have to say. i just bought a 95 integ LS 5spd back in December w/ 104000mi. i hope to do some mods on it but am new to this stuff. i would like to do a performance mod that is versatile on my engine, i.e. a setup that is used mainly for daily commute, but also to race if the opportunity presented itself. is i/h/e more suited for me or turbo? i feel that 140hp is not enough and would like something around that of 180-200hp. and a supplement question, which is more reliable on the long-term life of my car?

To be honest the allmotor capibilites of the Ls are not the greatest. The reason is the vtec head is far superior out of the box and the aftermarket has not responded as greatly with cams and what not. I would suggest nitrous if you just want to give it a little kick and remain reliable as possible. A good guy to talk to would be Nitrous Addict he is up to date on what all is out there in the world on nitrous.

[thermal]

Originally posted by md7997
hi all,

i've just been looking at this post and i'm really interested in what you guys have to say. i just bought a 95 integ LS 5spd back in December w/ 104000mi. i hope to do some mods on it but am new to this stuff. i would like to do a performance mod that is versatile on my engine, i.e. a setup that is used mainly for daily commute, but also to race if the opportunity presented itself. is i/h/e more suited for me or turbo? i feel that 140hp is not enough and would like something around that of 180-200hp. and a supplement question, which is more reliable on the long-term life of my car?

well, to be honest with you, to have a reliable car really depends on a few factor. one of it being the driving habits of the driver. revving the engine and redlining is not good for any car. if we take driving habits as NOT a foreseen problem, then a minor I/H/E set up should not hurt much. it may even prolong the engine's life. I/H/E contributes a lot to the combustion cycle of the engine. those modifications will help the engine breathe in and out more effectively. Turbo can be safe if tuned properly. Turbo is the way to go if you want power. to maintain a more reliable car, just do not Boost all the time. and like you said.....boost only if the opportunity presents itself...... peace

If I'm gonna be running, say, 8 psi of boost (probably no more than that) what do you all think I should do to the block/internals to prep it for boost?
I was thinking of pistons and rods and stuff, but if I can get away with stock internals for a little while, that would be cool so that I can get a turbo finally!

[thermal]

Originally posted by Incubus
If I'm gonna be running, say, 8 psi of boost (probably no more than that) what do you all think I should do to the block/internals to prep it for boost?
I was thinking of pistons and rods and stuff, but if I can get away with stock internals for a little while, that would be cool so that I can get a turbo finally!

you'll be safe at 8 psi with stock internals especially if u get a kit cuz most kit's come with an FCU or a sort of fuel management unit.

That's what I was planning on doing, going with the Greddy cause it comes with the FCU.....that way I can extract a little more power outta the turbo electronically.
I've also got an A'PEXi S-AFC, so I can probably do a bit of tuning with that as well.

I'll probably hold off on the boost controller until I do some internal engine work, such as the pistons, rods, etc.....possibly sleeves, and the icing on the cake will probably be porting and polishing the head.

[thermal]

Originally posted by Incubus
That's what I was planning on doing, going with the Greddy cause it comes with the FCU.....that way I can extract a little more power outta the turbo electronically.
I've also got an A'PEXi S-AFC, so I can probably do a bit of tuning with that as well.

I'll probably hold off on the boost controller until I do some internal engine work, such as the pistons, rods, etc.....possibly sleeves, and the icing on the cake will probably be porting and polishing the head.

goodluck man!

Here is a look at my set-up on my GS Fully built LS/Vtec-turbo set-up

T3/T04E Hybrid Turbo
RevHard Exhaust manifold
Spearco 29” FMIC
Vortech FMU
Apexi S-AFC
Vortech BOV
Deltagate II Wastegate
JE 9:5:1 Flattop Pistons
JE Piston Rings
Eagle Rods
OEM Honda Rod bearings
Race Engineering Blockguard
Metal Headgasket
RC 310cc Injectors
3” Testpipe
3” Downpipe
3” Thermal catback Exhaust
B&M FPR
Walbro Fuel Pump
MSD Blaster 3 coil
Missing link Check Valve
MSD wires
NGK plugs (2 step colder)
B&M short shifter
CS stage2 Clutch
Custom Intake Manifold
Type R head
B16 cams
OBD1 GSR ECU
ported 75mm TB
Greddy Turbo Timer
FAL Fan
ARP Hardware

Gauges:
5” Tach w/ shift light
EGT
Fuel Pressure
Boost
Air Fuel