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11-04-2002, 07:02 PM | #1 |
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Turbo Install
I'm getting ready to install a greddy turbo kit on my car later this month. Right now I have a greddy type s bov and a autometer boost gauge. I've just placed a high flow fuel pump on order. Thanks Civic_Addict for the website. In the future I'll purchase a intercooler and fuel injectors. Am I missing anything else?
Ron 1995 Honda Civic EX 4 DR Automatic |
11-04-2002, 07:52 PM | #2 |
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you've got the greddy turbo kit? if so that should be enough to get you up and running. i'd look into a 3' exaust... or maybe 2.75 depending on how much your boosting. once you bump boost, you might want to consider a thicker head gasket and possible internal upgrade later on.
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11-05-2002, 03:21 AM | #3 |
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hey, is that greddy turbo kit street legal? how about in CA? thanks!
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11-05-2002, 04:52 AM | #4 |
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The greddy kit I believe is street legal in 50 states since it is sold to boost at a low level and comes with proper fuel management software.
Depending on how many miles are on your car you might seriously want to consider upgrading some of your internals before throwing boost at your motor. Some thing to look into replacing would be.. 1. Pistons with low compression units, you can get arias for around 400$ a set with new rings 2. head gasket, you can get a greddy 2mm head gasket for around 125$ 3. Rods, not as import as the rest of these, but defenately worth doing while you are in there 4. rod bearings, obviously replace these with the rods intercool, intercool, intercool. Nothing will protect your investment better.
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11-05-2002, 10:41 AM | #5 |
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also a turbo timer wouldnt hurt
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11-05-2002, 03:28 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Woops, knew I forgot something. I actually installed the turbo timer before the turbo. I got the timer a week before the turbo arrived and got a little impatient. I also opted for an AEM Fuel rail, Venom Injectors, B&M command flow, BBK Fuel pump, new fuel lines and filter. I didn't leave the kit set at the stock 5.5psi though.
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11-05-2002, 03:58 PM | #7 |
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your upto 10psi now right? when you gonna jump to a bar?
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Black Vtec Prelude-h22a power'd Many dreams come true, and some have silver linings. I live for my dreams and a pocket full of gold. |
11-05-2002, 05:18 PM | #8 |
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these are the basic "gotta have" that did not come with the GReddy kit. keep in mind that these items are recommended while boosting at stock 5.5 psi:
-BOV -boost gauge -a/f ratio or EGT gauge -turbo timer EXPLANATION: -BOV= to allow less lag, which is next to nothing on this kit anyway, BUT will prevent a compressor surge (back spin). it will lengthen the life span of your turbo by preventing it from getting spanked every time you let off on the throttle OR between shifting. -Boost gauge= to monitor the boost level and to ensure that the wastegate is not malfunctioning. boost creep can cause catastrophic damage to your engine. -A/F ratio or EGT gauge= same thing. it monitors the efficiency of your set-up and will show indication of an engine needing more fuel while at boost. the EGT gauge is more of a tuning device. it actually works better than the A/F ratio gauge since these gauges actually requires a wide band O2 analyzer to get a more acurate reading. a wide band O2 analyzer can cost between $400-700..... to me it's not really worth it. a turboed car is preferred to run "rich". leaning it will cause detonation. -Turbo Timer= is a definite must have on every turboed car, IMO. a 1 minute countdown is plenty to allow the turbo to cool down. without a turbo timer, the turbo will eventually seize due to "caking or coking" of the oil. when the engine is shutdown without proper cooling, the hot oil remains inside the oil line and the turbo bearing/shafting. instead of the oil getting flushed back to the oil pan, the hot oil remains in the turbo oil system. a hot oil that is stationary will tend to solidify or gummy. the GReddy 92-95 TD04h-15g is designed as a straight forward "bolt on". if boost is maintained at 5.5 psi, you really wont need an upgrade on the fuel system EVENTHOUGH, your set up will run safer and better with upgrades. same story goes with the clutch. i do recommend these other items: -high flow cat -a minimum of 2.25 free flow exhaust pipe (cat back) better exhaust flow will make your turbo respond better. intercooling is not REQUIRED until you leave 5.5 psi. i suggest getting a type24 GReddy. the one i have is the type31. the piping sux! Tools and accessories that you'll need during self-install:MATERIALS: -Jack -Jack stand -Wheel stopper -Assorted vacuum hoses -Assorted vacuum T’s -Anti-seize -Teflon tape or liquid seal -Permatex copper (high temp) -Loctite red -Electrical tape -Zip lock bags -Rags -Oil drain bucket -Rubber grommet -Brackets -Assorted nuts and bolts -.75 to 1 gal of synthetic motor oil -Oil filter -Electrical wire (high temp) TOOLS: -Metric socket set -Metric open end/box end set -Adjustable crescent wrench -Oil filter wrench -Wire cutters -Pliers -Screw driver, flat -Screw driver, cross -Electric drill -Assorted drill bits -Center punch -Light hammer -Pencil -Utility knife Read these 2 posts that will guide you during the install: http://hondastyle.com/forums/showthr...=&threadid=105 http://hondastyle.com/forums/showthr...=&threadid=106 the "how to" section on this board is very useful |
11-05-2002, 05:21 PM | #9 |
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give me a call if you have any questions during the install:
757-499-5824 i'll hook you up. |
11-05-2002, 05:49 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
As soon as I have enough cash for a new turbo or a reworking of the old one. The way the Greddy turbo comes it is only capable of pushing 10lbs. Or so Greddy says when I called them. I have the internal wastegate adjusted as far as it will go and I can only get the thing to push 10psi. I'm about to order a revhard manifold and will probably be going with an HKS ball bearing turbo. I really want to run an external wastegate, and a new manifold and turbo so I can see just how much boost this beefed up single cam can take.
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11-05-2002, 05:56 PM | #11 |
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thermalfi makes some good points, but keep in mind that I have experience with running a Greddy TD04H kit on a higher mileage car and it spelled trouble, even at the stock setting of 5.5psi. I will say again and I can't stress it enough, if your motor has higher mileage upgrade everything you can before installing a turbo. You'll be sorry if you don't. Trust me, a month after installing my turbo my car started to blow smoke.
Cracked pistons fried rings blown head gasket Replacing the stuff before hand will save you time in the long run. Also could save you money. Who knows what else could be broken. Make sure your car is in perfect working order. Do a leak down test on the cylinders, check valves, valve adjustment, fuel system, clean injectors, tune up, etc.. Do everything you can to prevent what happened to me from happening to you. You have already spent 2k on the turbo kit, throw another 1k out there to make your engine bulletproof.
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11-05-2002, 06:36 PM | #12 |
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At 5.5psi, will I see some type of performance? Keep in my I have a automatic and it's slow as hell. The car itself has 125,000 miles on it. I always change the oil at 3,000 miles, just had the transmission flushed out. I don't dogg my car out. Is running a turbo a lot safer than run nitrous? What will a greddy head gasket do for me? Any answers would be helpful.
Ron 1995 Honda Civic EX 4 DR Automatic |
11-05-2002, 07:45 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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11-05-2002, 07:52 PM | #14 | |
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even at 1 psi you'll see a major increase in throttle response and power gain....yes, even with auto tranny. turbo and nitrous can be dangerous if you just slap it in without researches. you are doing just fine by posting here. when people talk about the GReddy head gasket, they are referring to the thicker head gasket which is usually made of a somekind of metal. what it does is lower your compression based on the thickness of the gasket. the thicker the gasket, the more it drops your compression. lower compression is typical for most turbo application. your stock compression ratio is fine with 5.5 psi of boost. |
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11-06-2002, 02:03 AM | #15 |
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When I first installed my turbo set at the stock 5.5psi I noticed the difference right away. There was very little turbo lag, the accelleration was necksnapping compared to before the turbo. I don't know about an automatic, haven't driven a turbo honda with a slushbox yet. Let me know how that works out.
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11-06-2002, 02:06 AM | #16 |
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and with 125000 miles on your car you are defenately going to want to start upgrading parts. At least pull the pistons to check them out and clean any carbon build up off of them. Check the rings and rod bearings too. I would add a thicker head gasket to lower compression before installing that kit on such a high mileage motor. My car had 112000 on it and was pampered and I had all types of problems. I'm not trying to discourage you, just telling it how it is. Also remember all cars are different, so what happened to me won't neccessarily happen to you.
Best of luck, if you can't afford all the extra beef up parts just install the turbo and see what happens. Worst comes to worst you have to replace stuff later. You will have fun with this mod. Hands down the best money I have spent on my car to date.
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11-07-2002, 03:38 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
....same here. turbo |
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11-07-2002, 05:44 PM | #18 |
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to the sound of a spoolup and the psssshhhhhhhh of a blow off valve..
YUMMMMMM
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12-02-2002, 11:13 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Turbo Install
Quote:
I strongly recommend upgrading your radiator.. I had some heating problems with my turbo kit.. ANd hence i blew my headgasket... Now i got a fluidyne radiator. If you can't afford the radiator.. Get some redline Watterwetter.. Its only a couple of bucks but from my personal experience.. works pretty well. |
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12-05-2002, 03:46 PM | #20 |
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You can definitely feel the power gain boosting 5.5lbs.... You can even feel alot of power gain by slapping on an exhaust once your turboed.
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