.:HSTuners::::Hondas Wanted:: |
05-29-2005, 12:07 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: ECUSA
Age: 47
Posts: 2,693
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Clutch Master/Slave Replacement
Just did this tonight... the pedal was getting wicked spongy so I figured why not just replace both now...
The correct way to check if it's actually leaking or bad is to look under the dash at where it comes through the firewall and look for any signs of dripping/leaking fluid... Once under there to replace it I saw that it was clearly leaking. First thing is remove the resivoir... First you remove the 2 10mm bolts holding on the resivoir mounting bracket... then you just use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull off the retaining band then pull off the hose... make sure you have a rag handy to stop it from dripping Brake fluid on the car. Then just put it aside and clean it... I used a healthy dose of brake clean to spray out the resivoir and down the ruber line that goes to the master... Now you break the brake line loose from the master (USE A FLARE NUT WRENCH (it has 5 points of contact instead of 3) other wise you run the risk of f'ing up a brake line fitting and having a TON of fun rebending and flaring a new line....) Just loosen it though don't remove it or you'll be dripping brake fluid on the engine bay... Next step I HIGHLY recomend taking out the driver seat unless you're a contortionist (you'll have to be one anyway even with it out)... Now you lay under the dash facing upwards and remove the cotter pin holding in the pin that connects the master piston to the clutch pedal... once the cotter pin is removed (BIG PITA) then you slide out the retaining pin.... Next remove the 2 12mm nuts holding the master cyl. to the fire wall... Once the mount nuts are removed you can completely disconnect the brake line from the master. That's it for removal... instalation is opposite of removal... For the slave.... Again I recomend breaking loose the brake line fitting before removing the slave (ALWAYS USE A FLARE NUT WRENCH (it has 5 points of contact instead of 3) other wise you run the risk of f'ing up a brake line fitting and having a TON of fun rebending and flaring a new line. This one isn't a TENTH as bad as if you mess the one on the master up (the metal line to the slave is MUCH shorter than the metal line from the master to the slave) After the brake line fitting is loose then you remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the slave to the transmission. Then gently pull it out... try not to pull too much on the clutch fork as it could come loose from where it mounts inside the trans which again turns a simple job into a NIGHTMARE. Once it's removed again you just reverse the steps for re-installation. Then gravity bleed... I had someone pump it a few times to make sure there was no air... but gravity bleeding ought to take care of it... Here's a pick of my old ones... I'll snap some of the new stuff tomorrow... I got a LOT more work to do tomorrow... So maybe I'll do some write ups on those projects too....
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05-29-2005, 09:29 PM | #2 |
Repost Wagon
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: over here
Age: 44
Posts: 17,266
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aigth buddy, this is a how to. move and sticky
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05-29-2005, 09:30 PM | #3 |
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Az
Age: 43
Posts: 3,804
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great write up!
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05-29-2005, 10:31 PM | #4 |
Banning Machine
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: My Garage, Va.
Posts: 5,547
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good shit mang
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