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View Full Version : Front strut bar installation

4jacks
03-12-2002, 03:36 PM
Hey Guys

I got a Front strut bar on the way and wanted to know if anyone has a link or post of installation... ???? This is an easy one right... just unbolt the bolts, put the bar on and re-bolt the bolts... RIGHT ?????
alpine3069
03-12-2002, 05:22 PM
yep you got it!! mine took like 15 min to put on!! it is easy!!!
Boston Mangler
03-12-2002, 05:53 PM
is the difference noticable?

i was thinking of doing this too

what springs ya running?

thanks
alpine3069
03-12-2002, 06:15 PM
i have stock for now! but i have the front and rear ones on and yes there is a noticeable difference!
Boston Mangler
03-12-2002, 06:34 PM
ok thanks

i think i am going to get some

which brands ya recommend?

thanks
alpine3069
03-12-2002, 06:48 PM
some people say that you should get the kind that don't have pivot points, but unless your doing alot of racing around corners i don't think that it matters
4jacks
03-12-2002, 08:00 PM
STupid Question....

I was going get the rear too.... but Where does it go ??? the front goes in the engine bay... where's the rear go ??
alpine3069
03-12-2002, 08:24 PM
in the trunk under the the carpet, if you lift the carpet up you will see where it goes
90civiclxryder
03-12-2002, 08:30 PM
Originally posted by 4jacks
Hey Guys

I got a Front strut bar on the way and wanted to know if anyone has a link or post of installation... ???? This is an easy one right... just unbolt the bolts, put the bar on and re-bolt the bolts... RIGHT ?????

ive been told to jack the car up in the middle to get stress off of them when you install it
alpine3069
03-12-2002, 09:21 PM
i didn't and had no problems but that would make sence to!
Addict
03-13-2002, 07:49 AM
Just unbolt the bolts and bolt them back. There's not really any stress on these bolts so I wouldn't worry about jacking it up.

The rear upper bar goes between the rear strut towers. You'll have to cut a hole in your carpet to do this one.

As far as pivot points go, read http://www.hondastyle.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2524

Dezoris does a great job of explaining that topic.
4jacks
03-13-2002, 04:48 PM
Thanks CA that's a great Link, Although I think I got one w/ a Pivot Point :no:

Oh Well ... I just bought it for Looks anyway :D
alpine3069
03-13-2002, 05:27 PM
IMO it still helped my handleing!!
Addict
03-13-2002, 09:08 PM
Originally posted by 4jacks
Thanks CA that's a great Link, Although I think I got one w/ a Pivot Point :no:

Oh Well ... I just bought it for Looks anyway :D

I have the DC Sports version. It has pivot points as well, but it looks damn good...
4jacks
03-13-2002, 11:00 PM
yea.. I just order a cheap shiny one and I'm still deciding whether it's going be DC Sports or Eibach... (if you catch my drift :D )

I just have to ask... what is IMO ?!?!?!?!
Sivik
03-13-2002, 11:48 PM
IMO = In My Opinion
DoughRacer
03-21-2002, 02:15 AM
i find this to be rather funny. The difference between "pivot points and non "pivot points" is merely whether its welded on or not. Any pivot point strut bar uses bolts to lock the pieces in place effectively making it one solid piece. now a non pivoting bar or just straight up one piece unit is literally solid so theres nothing to worry about there. in all actualities the pivoting strut bars are much more durable. I live in the frosty ass cold northwest and metal has a tendency to shrink and expend here. I have had both types of strut bars on my car and found that the "pivot bars have been the better of the two. there is no noticable difference in handling between the two and quite frankly for 150-200 dollars less id rather have the "pivot"
alpine3069
03-21-2002, 10:17 AM
that is a good point!! :yes:
Addict
03-21-2002, 10:39 AM
Originally posted by DoughRacer
i find this to be rather funny. The difference between "pivot points and non "pivot points" is merely whether its welded on or not. Any pivot point strut bar uses bolts to lock the pieces in place effectively making it one solid piece. now a non pivoting bar or just straight up one piece unit is literally solid so theres nothing to worry about there. in all actualities the pivoting strut bars are much more durable. I live in the frosty ass cold northwest and metal has a tendency to shrink and expend here. I have had both types of strut bars on my car and found that the "pivot bars have been the better of the two. there is no noticable difference in handling between the two and quite frankly for 150-200 dollars less id rather have the "pivot"

Its going to take more than weather changes to affect the structure of a non-pivot point (or a pivot point) bar. Those weather changes are not going to affect the durability. Yes, I know it gets cold there. But its not enough to affect the structural integrity of the bar.
4jacks
03-21-2002, 05:43 PM
Well I got my strut bar, and everything seems ok cept I have to move my Brake Fluid Container, cuase it's in the Way ?!?!? Is that pretty normal ??

As far as I can logically tell in the pivot point conversation, the weakest part of the solid strut is going to be the weld, so that strut bar is as good as it's weld, With the pivot point your weakest point is that pivot point, so your strut bar is as good as how much you tightened that bolt.

Mines all show anyhoo...
Addict
03-21-2002, 08:30 PM
Originally posted by 4jacks
Well I got my strut bar, and everything seems ok cept I have to move my Brake Fluid Container, cuase it's in the Way ?!?!? Is that pretty normal ??



Not sure about teh 7th gens, but the 6th gens don't require moving anything.